The way to Step Material for a Chair Slipcover

You can find a custom look, modernize your furniture, match your new decor, or simply save a vintage comfortable chair by making your own slipcover. Before you may begin sewing, though, you must work out just how much material you need. Finding the right measurements not only ensures that you don’t waste cash on excess material, but also prevents the more expensive mistake of not buying enough material and having to begin the job over from scratch.

Remove the seat cushion, if there’s one. If the seat doesn’t have another cushion, then skip to Step 4.

Measure the seat cushion. This includes three measurements; the width, the length, and the height of the pillow.

Add 3 inches to every seat cushion measurement, then insert all three together for the total size of the pillow.

Measure the seat base. This is either in which the pillow sits, or the seat of this seat, depending on whether it’s a cushion. Take two measurements: the width and the length.

Add 5 inches to every seat base measurement, and add both together.

Measure the height of this seat from the base of the seat to the ground and add three inches.

Remove the rear pillow, if there’s one. When there’s no back cushion, then skip to Step 10.

Measure the rear pillow. This includes three measurements: the width, the length, and the thickness of the pillow.

Insert three inches to every back cushion measurement and then add the three measurements together.

Measure the rear of the interior of the chair. This is just two measurements — from the very top to the seat base and from side to side.

Insert three inches to the measurements of the rear of the seat, and insert them both together.

Gauge the very back of the seat, from top to bottom and from side to side.

Insert three inches to each measurement from the rear of the seat, then insert the two together.

Gauge the arms. The initial measurement is from the rear of the seat, down over the edge of the arm and on to the ground. The second measurement begins at the base of the seat, and extends up and over the arm to the ground.

Insert both arm dimension together and then insert eight inches. Multiply this total by 2.

Add together the totals from steps 3, 5, 5, 6, 9, 11, 13 and 15.

Divide the total by 36. This total is the number of yards needed to cover the seat.

See related

Tips on Removing Suds From an Outside Water Feature

The trickling noise of water from your backyard water feature, like a fountain or waterfall, can include a sense of tranquility to your home’s landscape. Sometimes suds and foam can appear on your own water feature, however. Don’t allow the foam affect the natural beauty of your landscape. While the causes of suds and foam fluctuate, several hints can help you eliminate suds and stop them from returning.

Use Distilled Water

Water in the garden hose or tap is rich in various minerals. These minerals can cake up your own water feature’s various parts and also raise the dangers of bacteria growth and algae development. This in turn often contributes to improvements like slime on the base of your water feature and foamy bubbles on the surface of the water. By removing all the present water and replacing it with distilled water, then you cut mineral content and eliminate the many causes of suds, thus aiding the problem to quickly adjust itself.

Change the Water Regularly

Over time, the water from your water feature starts to experience a buildup of organic matter. This issue can come from several sources, like leaves or bird droppings falling to the water. As this organic content concentration rises, the motion of the water feature generates suds on the surface of the water. Normal water changes help to eliminate the causes of the suds while also keeping it from recurring. For the best results, the water in ponds and water that is similar features must get changed at least every six months. Remove approximately 15 percent of the present water and then replace it with fresh water.

Reduce Sun Exposure

The sun creates suds and foam in 2 ways. It rapidly rises water evaporation, which then concentrates the degree of debris and organic matter from the water which causes suds. Second, sunlight boosts algae growth and the dangers of algae blooms. As the algae cells grow and die, the algae cells burst and discharge surfectants that create suds from the water. By moving the water feature to the shade, or adding shade-creating plants to the water feature like floating water lilies, you help to stop present foam and stop its recurrence.

Insert a Defoamer Agent

As a final resort, defoaming agents can help to instantly remove suds and foam in case environmental alterations, like distilled water and shade, do not eliminate the suds to your own satisfaction. Defoaming products made for fountains and water features function in various ways. Some products dissolve the organic matter from the water which causes the suds. Other products include silicone or similar surfectants that create a thin, invisible layer to the water surface and also maintain bubbles from forming. These goods can be found in the majority of garden and pond shops.

See related

The best way to Interseed Grasses & Legumes

Growing grasses in 1 location for quite a very long time often results in weedy, worn-out soil that can no longer encourage development without frequent replacement of nitrogen. Adding legumes into such a depleted yard might help soften the dirt, avoiding the requirement for constant, expensive fluid treatments. Legumes, besides adding color to a landscape, create nitrogen naturally through a symbiotic relationship with root microbes. Popular legumes to interseed with yard grasses include alfalfa, red clover, white clover, birdsfoot trefoil and sainfoin.

Eliminate the existing grass in the yard by tilling the soil to 6 ins. Any remaining grass will have an established root system and may dominate new seeds.

Rake the tilled ground flat and roll over it with a lawn roller, as seeds should not be planted more than several inches under the ground.

Opt for a commercial seed mixture of beans and grass. The most common combination for lawns is grass and clover.

Fill the seed mixture into a broadcast seed spreader. Roll the spreader over the yard in perpendicular rows, then examine the lawn again in a diagonal direction to prevent a pattern that is visible.

Lightly rake over the ground and roll it over with the roller to blend the seeds to the ground.

Water that the new seed for 10 minutes twice daily for two weeks, providing mild humidity. After two weeks, once growth begins, cut back to five minutes at every watering. When the lawn is established, water just every couple of days.

See related

Similar Plants to Cockscomb Plant

Cockscomb plants (Celosia cristata) are named for the striking resemblance of their blossoms to a rooster’s comb. Their large, flat flower heads form a curving crest with a ruffled edge and are usually bright red. The plants are perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zones 10 through 12 and develop as annuals elsewhere. Cockscomb is a portion of the Amaranth or Celosia family, and several other plants in that family have growth patterns much like cockscomb’s patterns.


Some plants in the Celosia genus, called the “Plumosa” assortment (Celosia plumosa), produce fluffy, colorful flower heads that resemble feathery plumes. Their plumes actually are composed of hundreds of tiny flowers which are rather like those on cockscomb, but they’re grouped tightly together slim, erect stems. Grown as sun-loving annuals, they include flowers throughout summer and don’t require deadheading. Depending on the cultivar, the plants reach a mature height of 24 to 40 inches. Varieties include “Forest Fire Improved,” which has fiery orange to scarlet plumes along with bronze-red leaves, “Golden Triumph,” with deep-yellow plumes, and “Sparkler Mix,” a band that has particularly stiff yellow, orange or red plumes. These plants are hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11 and are grown as annuals in colder areas.

Wheat-Type Celosia

Another plant linked to cockscomb is the wheat-type celosia (Celosia spicata), also called spiked cockscomb. Varieties of the plant produce narrow, spike-shaped flower heads which resemble stalks of wheat. They generally are tall plants, reaching a height around 4 feet, and produce ample flower heads that provide the plants a shrublike look. They are perennial plants in USDA zones 10 and 11 and annuals in cooler zones. Varieties include “Flamingo Feather,” which features burgundy, pink and white flower heads, “Tassles Deep Rose,” with pink to purple flowers, along with “Flamingo Purple,” which has purple flowers which are considered excellent to be used as dried flowers. A dwarf variety called “Kosmo Purple Red” is just 12 inches tall, has green and purple leaves and creates narrow, red flower heads which mature to resemble tiny cockscombs.

Tassel Flower

Related to the cockscomb as a portion of the Amaranth family, the tassel flower plant (Amaranthus caudatus) is also called love-lies-bleeding due to its long, pendulous blossom heads that hang straight down and could reach a span of 2 feet. Made up of hundreds of tiny flowers that lack petals, the flower stalks are bright red, quite unusual in shape and maintain their colour well when dried. The plant is tough, drought-tolerant and acceptable for USDA zones 2 through 11. A bonus is that it creates edible seeds in the end of the growing season.

Globe Amaranth

The globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) is just another amaranth-type relative to the cockscomb. Like cockscomb, its flowers are actually flower heads composed of many tiny flowers. In its case, nevertheless, extremely small and colorful bracts surround each of the miniature, petal-less flowers to make up around, or globular, flower heads. A simple plant to develop, globe amaranth reaches a mature height of 1 to 2 feet and generally is increased as a sun-loving annual in boundaries or flowerbeds. Its flower heads are deep pink to magenta, though plants bearing lighter pink or even white flowers may arise from a planting of mixed seeds. Globe amaranth flowers are attractive to butterflies and keep their colour well when dehydrated. The plants are acceptable for growing in USDA zones 2 through 11.

See related

The Best Drought-Tolerant Flower Bulbs for Each Season

Bulbs store their entire life cycle at a swollen underground stem. This structure contains the leaves, flowers, food and bulblets. Flowering bulbs produce bright-colored flowers, giving the backyard seasonal shade. A number of these kinds of bulbs endure drought conditions, particularly while dormant.

Spring-Flowering Bulbs

Spring lights give the garden shade after a gray winter. African iris (Dietes iridioides) grows best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11 with white flowers containing yellow and purple-blue markings. These spring blossoms last till late fall, looming over botanical stiff sword-shaped leaves reaching 2-3 feet tall forming clumps 3 to 4 ft wide. “Oratorio” tulips (Tulipa greigii “Oratorio”), at USDA zones 3 through 8, create green and maroon striped leaves, forming clumps using 14- to 16-inch-tall coral pink flowers. This flowering bulb gives the garden a cottage-style feeling.

Summer-Flowering Bulbs

Summer lights adapt to the surroundings to survive hot dry summers. “Columbus” Montbretia (Crocosmia “Columbus”) creates arching stems reaching 32 ins covered with glowing yellow lily-like blossoms looming over patches of grass-like green leaves spreading 18 inches wide. This perennial bulb prefers full sun locations in USDA zones 6 through 10 and attracts hummingbirds and butterflies to the yard. “Lucifer” crocosmia (Crocosmia “Lucifer”), in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, grows red butterfly-shaped flowers with yellow or orange accents and green sword-like leaves reaching 2-3 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet broad. This bulb stays evergreen as long as it’s not exposed to freezing temperatures.

Fall-Flowering Bulbs

Fall lights provide a last burst of colour to the backyard as other plants really are entering a dormant state for winter. Fall daffodil (Sternbergia lutea) grows well in USDA zones 6 through 9, reaching less than 6 inches tall with yellow crocus-like blossoms 1 1/2 inches wide on top of a single stem. The deep green lance-shaped leaves remain throughout most of the winter, disappearing from the spring. Saffron crocus (Crocus sativus), in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, creates lilac-colored flowers with dark purple veins. The flowers flare wide open, covering the leaves. Saffron spice comes from the crimson styles in the center of the blooms.

Winter-Flowering Bulbs

Winter lights provide the yard color and interest when most plants have been naked. Bush lilies (Veltheimia bracteata) hit up to 24 inches tall and 18 inches wide with wide strap-like green leaves near the floor and also clusters of drooping tubular-shaped pinkish-purple flowers in addition to tall stalks. This bulb grows best in USDA zones 9 and 10. Cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), from USDA plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, grows less than 12 inches tall and broad with pink, red, violet, white and purple showy blossoms composed of reflexed petals in addition to a 6- year to 9-inch-tall leafless stem. During the summertime, the mass of green heart-shaped leaves with silver markers shouted back to the ground while the arc goes dormant.

See related

The way to find Old Wax Off of Wood Floors

Floor wax is typically made from animal, mineral or vegetable fats that never really dry. While wax provides protection against moisture, it isn’t a durable finish and has to be reapplied frequently. Over the years, this contributes to a buildup of old wax on your floor that makes refinishing hard, because you cannot apply a more durable finish, like polyurethane, until virtually all traces of wax have been removed. Removing old wax from wood floors is time-consuming, however, it isn’t an impossible task.

Sweep away loose dirt, mud and other debris, and mop the floor using warm water to remove any grime or residues in the wood’s surface.

Pour a small quantity of mineral spirits directly onto a 2-square foot section of floor. Working in small sections makes it easier to make sure that you eliminated the wax. Do not move onto a new section until you’ve eliminated as much as possible from the previous one.

Scrub a clean cloth or rag in half an hour and function the mineral spirits to the wax. Use a circular movement to wash the wax in the floor.

Wipe the floor dry with a second fabric and put on the mineral spirits a second time. Wipe the floor with a fabric. If a yellow deposits still shows on the cloth, this implies there’s still wax present. Scrub the floor again with mineral spirits until no more yellow deposits appears on your fabric.

Keep applying the mineral spirits and scrubbing until you have removed as much of the wax as you can in the timber.

Scrub heavy wax buildup with fine steel wool when the fabric doesn’t remove all residues, and wipe with a clean, dry cloth.

Continue working in 2-foot sections until the whole floor is cleared of wax. Change your cloths often to prevent redepositing wax onto the floor.

Leave the wood to dry thoroughly before applying any finish products. It’s important to be sure all traces of wax are eliminated before employing or sanding finish products to your hardwood because waxy deposits on the surface or at the pores of the timber will interfere with adhesion and will make sanding difficult since it might clog the seams.

See related

Varieties of Dwarf Pink Magnolias

Magnolias are a family of shrubs and trees known for their large, saucer-like blossoms that appear early in the spring. Full-size magnolia trees often grow up to 80 feet in height and could be impractical for smaller garden spaces. However, dwarf species provide all of the beauty and scent of this magnolia’s distinguishing flowers while supplying more convenient sizing for hedges or even more enclosed locations. While many dwarf varieties produce white flowers, a couple cultivars provide pink or violet blooms and stay under 20 feet in height.

“Ann” Magnolia

The “Ann” magnolia (Magnolia x “Ann”) is a late-blooming cultivar that is hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 through 8. This tiny hybrid grows to only 8 to 10 feet high, which makes it a good option for hedges and boundaries. The flowers bloom in late spring and are a deep violet pink.

“Jane” Magnolia

The “Jane” magnolia (Magnolia x “Jane”) is among the hardiest of this dwarf magnolias, opening late in the spring to prevent damage from frost, allowing it to thrive in USDA zones 4 through 7. The tree grows between 10 and 15 feet tall, boasting distinguishing flowers that are reddish-pink on the outside and white on the interior.

Fairy Magnolia Blush

The hybrid Fairy Magnolia Blush (Michelia x “MicJUR01”) is hardy to USDA zones 8 to 11 and creates pale pink blooms from the conclusion of winter during mid-spring. This compact plant grows 10 to 13 feet tall, which makes it ideal for hedges or other tight spaces.

Black Tulip Magnolia

The Black Tulip magnolia (Magnolia x soulangiana “Jurmag1”) offers distinctive deep pink blossoms with a cupped tulip form. This deciduous cultivar does well in containers, with slender branches extending around 15 to 20 feet tall. It’s hardy to USDA zones 5 through 9.

See related

How to Wash Fleas on Laminate Floors

If fleas are in your laminate floors, it isn’t because they want to be there. They would much rather be nestled cozily on your pets’ fur, and they probably fell off. They’ll head for the gaps involving flooring planks where water, steam and other flea-controlling liquids should never proceed.

Flea Control With Baking Soda and Salt

Few products that claim to control fleas are 100 percent successful, so instead of spending money on an expensive flea powder or spray, consider using baking soda and salt. Both of these common household products, when combined together, can desiccate and ruin the eggs left between the floorboards, and they’re able to do the exact same to adult fleas. You may use the salt and baking soda separately, but it’s much easier to mix them together in identical proportions. You are going to need a cup of each.


Start the flea control procedure by removing everything in the floor and taking it outside, where you should treat it separately. Place the baking soda and salt mixture in a plastic condiment container with a spout, and squeeze the powder over the floor. Sweep the powder into the cracks, then allow it to remain there overnight. Vacuum the floor thoroughly in the morning with a soft attachment that won’t scrape the laminate finish. You might need to repeat this treatment in three to four days to kill larvae from eggs that have hatched.

See related

What Is the Difference Between Dry Mopping and Wet Mopping?

When it comes to mopping, both dry and wet methods have their benefits, but one method doesn’t necessarily replace the opposite in all times. Dry mopping, a little like sweeping, picks up dust, dirt, crumbs and random items littering the ground. Wet mopping comes in handy for spills and stains and caked-on debris which doesn’t come up with a dry mop.

Dry-Mop Options

Dry mops, also called dust mops, have either a fabric-based head or a disposable pad that is replaced after each use. Each type is intended to collect and trap dust, hair and fine particles since you swipe it over the ground. Keep the head in contact with the ground as you mop, lifting it only to empty accumulated debris from the trash or to shake the mop outside. For disposable methods, discard the mat and then replace it with a brand new one. Dry mops are capable of wiping up dry things — they are not intended to absorb spilled liquids, for instance.

Wet-Mop Basics

Wet mops vary considerably from 1 version to another, but generally, they involve a rag or sponge head which you dip into a bucket full of soapy water or ground cleaner, depending on the ground type. Some contemporary versions have a built-in reservoir for spraying the cleaner over the ground rather than dipping the mop to a bucket. Wipe the floor with a wet mop only after sweeping or dry mopping; otherwise, you may make the flooring muddy or more dirty. Wet mopping requires regular rinsing of the mop head or re-application of this cleaning solution to get an entire floor clean. This method is ideal for dried spills.

See related

A Description of the Flowers of the Baobab Tree and How They Are Pollinated

The nine baobab tree species (Adansonia spp.) Grow in low-lying, arid regions of Africa, Madagascar or Australia. The deciduous trees can become massive, with the larger species reaching 80 feet in height and 40 feet in back width. A baobab is sometimes referred to as the “upside down tree” because when bare, its crown looks like a root system. Although baobabs’ smooth bark does not enable the trees’ ages to be discerned by counting rings in their trunks, carbon dating has put some specimens at over 1,000 years old. The trees’ blossoms are pollinated by bats, insects and mouse lemurs, based on in which the trees grow.

Floral Screen

All baobab trees have flowers which open during the night and fall within a day. The species commonly known as African baobab (Adansonia digitata) contains big, white flowers which can reach 5 inches in diameter. Each blossom’s around, thick petals surround a mass of purplish stamens. African baobab is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b through 11. The six baobab species in Madagascar have flowers which range in color from white to yellow and orange, and the blooms are usually smaller than those of African baobab. Two species in Madagascar have pendulous blossoms while four have flowers with long, cylindrical petals. All species from the Adansonia genus sport blossoms which have copious quantities of nectar and strong aromas.

Pollination of African Baobab

Many species of fruit bats are the main pollinators of African baobab. The large blooms are well-suited to bat pollination since they are big enough to support a bat while it laps nectar. The flowers grow on long stalks at the end of branches, where bats can reach them easily. Since few blossoms are open at one time, bats must move from tree to tree, which promotes cross-pollination.

Pollination of Madagascar Baobabs

Madagascar baobabs are pollinated mainly by mouse lemurs and hawk moths. Mouse lemurs, which will be the world’s smallest primates, emerge after hibernation to feast on the nectar of baobab trees’ flowers. Hawk moths feed the baobabs’ nectar, also, and spread the trees’ pollen. The mouse lemurs, however, catch and consume feeding moths.

Pollination of Baobab Down Under

Australian bottle tree (Adansonia gregorii) is the single species of baobab native to Australia. It is quite much like African baobab genetically, but its flowers are very long and cylindrical rather than around and pendulous. Although bats visit Australian bottle tree and feed its flowers’ nectar, hawk moths would be the tree’s main pollinators. The cylindrical shape of the blossoms are more suited to moths and other insects than to bats. Australian bottle tree is hardy in USDA zone 11.

See related