Floor wax is typically made from animal, mineral or vegetable fats that never really dry. While wax provides protection against moisture, it isn’t a durable finish and has to be reapplied frequently. Over the years, this contributes to a buildup of old wax on your floor that makes refinishing hard, because you cannot apply a more durable finish, like polyurethane, until virtually all traces of wax have been removed. Removing old wax from wood floors is time-consuming, however, it isn’t an impossible task.
Sweep away loose dirt, mud and other debris, and mop the floor using warm water to remove any grime or residues in the wood’s surface.
Pour a small quantity of mineral spirits directly onto a 2-square foot section of floor. Working in small sections makes it easier to make sure that you eliminated the wax. Do not move onto a new section until you’ve eliminated as much as possible from the previous one.
Scrub a clean cloth or rag in half an hour and function the mineral spirits to the wax. Use a circular movement to wash the wax in the floor.
Wipe the floor dry with a second fabric and put on the mineral spirits a second time. Wipe the floor with a fabric. If a yellow deposits still shows on the cloth, this implies there’s still wax present. Scrub the floor again with mineral spirits until no more yellow deposits appears on your fabric.
Keep applying the mineral spirits and scrubbing until you have removed as much of the wax as you can in the timber.
Scrub heavy wax buildup with fine steel wool when the fabric doesn’t remove all residues, and wipe with a clean, dry cloth.
Continue working in 2-foot sections until the whole floor is cleared of wax. Change your cloths often to prevent redepositing wax onto the floor.
Leave the wood to dry thoroughly before applying any finish products. It’s important to be sure all traces of wax are eliminated before employing or sanding finish products to your hardwood because waxy deposits on the surface or at the pores of the timber will interfere with adhesion and will make sanding difficult since it might clog the seams.
Magnolias are a family of shrubs and trees known for their large, saucer-like blossoms that appear early in the spring. Full-size magnolia trees often grow up to 80 feet in height and could be impractical for smaller garden spaces. However, dwarf species provide all of the beauty and scent of this magnolia’s distinguishing flowers while supplying more convenient sizing for hedges or even more enclosed locations. While many dwarf varieties produce white flowers, a couple cultivars provide pink or violet blooms and stay under 20 feet in height.
The “Ann” magnolia (Magnolia x “Ann”) is a late-blooming cultivar that is hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 through 8. This tiny hybrid grows to only 8 to 10 feet high, which makes it a good option for hedges and boundaries. The flowers bloom in late spring and are a deep violet pink.
The “Jane” magnolia (Magnolia x “Jane”) is among the hardiest of this dwarf magnolias, opening late in the spring to prevent damage from frost, allowing it to thrive in USDA zones 4 through 7. The tree grows between 10 and 15 feet tall, boasting distinguishing flowers that are reddish-pink on the outside and white on the interior.
Fairy Magnolia Blush
The hybrid Fairy Magnolia Blush (Michelia x “MicJUR01”) is hardy to USDA zones 8 to 11 and creates pale pink blooms from the conclusion of winter during mid-spring. This compact plant grows 10 to 13 feet tall, which makes it ideal for hedges or other tight spaces.
Black Tulip Magnolia
The Black Tulip magnolia (Magnolia x soulangiana “Jurmag1”) offers distinctive deep pink blossoms with a cupped tulip form. This deciduous cultivar does well in containers, with slender branches extending around 15 to 20 feet tall. It’s hardy to USDA zones 5 through 9.
If fleas are in your laminate floors, it isn’t because they want to be there. They would much rather be nestled cozily on your pets’ fur, and they probably fell off. They’ll head for the gaps involving flooring planks where water, steam and other flea-controlling liquids should never proceed.
Flea Control With Baking Soda and Salt
Few products that claim to control fleas are 100 percent successful, so instead of spending money on an expensive flea powder or spray, consider using baking soda and salt. Both of these common household products, when combined together, can desiccate and ruin the eggs left between the floorboards, and they’re able to do the exact same to adult fleas. You may use the salt and baking soda separately, but it’s much easier to mix them together in identical proportions. You are going to need a cup of each.
Start the flea control procedure by removing everything in the floor and taking it outside, where you should treat it separately. Place the baking soda and salt mixture in a plastic condiment container with a spout, and squeeze the powder over the floor. Sweep the powder into the cracks, then allow it to remain there overnight. Vacuum the floor thoroughly in the morning with a soft attachment that won’t scrape the laminate finish. You might need to repeat this treatment in three to four days to kill larvae from eggs that have hatched.
When it comes to mopping, both dry and wet methods have their benefits, but one method doesn’t necessarily replace the opposite in all times. Dry mopping, a little like sweeping, picks up dust, dirt, crumbs and random items littering the ground. Wet mopping comes in handy for spills and stains and caked-on debris which doesn’t come up with a dry mop.
Dry mops, also called dust mops, have either a fabric-based head or a disposable pad that is replaced after each use. Each type is intended to collect and trap dust, hair and fine particles since you swipe it over the ground. Keep the head in contact with the ground as you mop, lifting it only to empty accumulated debris from the trash or to shake the mop outside. For disposable methods, discard the mat and then replace it with a brand new one. Dry mops are capable of wiping up dry things — they are not intended to absorb spilled liquids, for instance.
Wet mops vary considerably from 1 version to another, but generally, they involve a rag or sponge head which you dip into a bucket full of soapy water or ground cleaner, depending on the ground type. Some contemporary versions have a built-in reservoir for spraying the cleaner over the ground rather than dipping the mop to a bucket. Wipe the floor with a wet mop only after sweeping or dry mopping; otherwise, you may make the flooring muddy or more dirty. Wet mopping requires regular rinsing of the mop head or re-application of this cleaning solution to get an entire floor clean. This method is ideal for dried spills.
The nine baobab tree species (Adansonia spp.) Grow in low-lying, arid regions of Africa, Madagascar or Australia. The deciduous trees can become massive, with the larger species reaching 80 feet in height and 40 feet in back width. A baobab is sometimes referred to as the “upside down tree” because when bare, its crown looks like a root system. Although baobabs’ smooth bark does not enable the trees’ ages to be discerned by counting rings in their trunks, carbon dating has put some specimens at over 1,000 years old. The trees’ blossoms are pollinated by bats, insects and mouse lemurs, based on in which the trees grow.
All baobab trees have flowers which open during the night and fall within a day. The species commonly known as African baobab (Adansonia digitata) contains big, white flowers which can reach 5 inches in diameter. Each blossom’s around, thick petals surround a mass of purplish stamens. African baobab is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b through 11. The six baobab species in Madagascar have flowers which range in color from white to yellow and orange, and the blooms are usually smaller than those of African baobab. Two species in Madagascar have pendulous blossoms while four have flowers with long, cylindrical petals. All species from the Adansonia genus sport blossoms which have copious quantities of nectar and strong aromas.
Pollination of African Baobab
Many species of fruit bats are the main pollinators of African baobab. The large blooms are well-suited to bat pollination since they are big enough to support a bat while it laps nectar. The flowers grow on long stalks at the end of branches, where bats can reach them easily. Since few blossoms are open at one time, bats must move from tree to tree, which promotes cross-pollination.
Pollination of Madagascar Baobabs
Madagascar baobabs are pollinated mainly by mouse lemurs and hawk moths. Mouse lemurs, which will be the world’s smallest primates, emerge after hibernation to feast on the nectar of baobab trees’ flowers. Hawk moths feed the baobabs’ nectar, also, and spread the trees’ pollen. The mouse lemurs, however, catch and consume feeding moths.
Pollination of Baobab Down Under
Australian bottle tree (Adansonia gregorii) is the single species of baobab native to Australia. It is quite much like African baobab genetically, but its flowers are very long and cylindrical rather than around and pendulous. Although bats visit Australian bottle tree and feed its flowers’ nectar, hawk moths would be the tree’s main pollinators. The cylindrical shape of the blossoms are more suited to moths and other insects than to bats. Australian bottle tree is hardy in USDA zone 11.