Tips for Cleaning Exterior Brick

Cleaning outside brickwork such as walls, paths and fences on a regular basis not only retains the brick looking fresh and new, but also increases its lifespan. Moss, mildew and layers of grime trap moisture that degrades the surface of the brick. Removing grime will conserve your brickwork for years to come.

Condition is Everything

Inspect the brickwork for any damage, before cleaning. Cracks, chips and missing chunks of mortar may allow water to seep beyond the surface, resulting in irreversible damage. Make any necessary repairs prior to cleaning the bricks that water and detergent do not make the issue worse.

Test It Out

If you’re planning to use any detergent on the bricks, test an inconspicuous area prior to cleaning. Spray or use the cleaner on the brick, scrub as you would during cleaning then rinse. Check the brick when it dries to guarantee that the detergent hasn’t caused any discoloring.

Spray It Off

Use a pressure washer to remove grime and surface dirt. Take care to not damage the masonry using the maximum pressure or holding the sprayer too near the bricks. Keep the pressure below 3000 psi. Typically, pressure washing will be sufficient to wash out the brick. When it is stained or heavily soiled and the sprayer doesn’t depart the brick tidy, you might have to use a detergent.

Do-It-Yourself Detergent

Utilize a commercial brick cleaning solution to remove stains and grime, or create your own. For grime, mix equal portions laundry detergent and water. Particularly those due to moss, mix one part bleach. Or, make a paste you could spread on the brick by mixing one part salt and one part dishwashing liquid then adding only enough water to make a thick paste. Start at the base of the wall and work your way up, letting the detergent endure for five to ten minutes prior to scrubbing with a brush and rinsing.

Blast It Off

As a final resort, you may use abrasive blasting to remove stains and dirt. This process can damage mortar and bricks if not done properly. It is not suitable for historical or soft bricks. This sort of job is best performed by an expert. If you decide to do it yourself, test a small area first to make sure the abrasive doesn’t pit or damage the brick. Abrasive blasting options include lavender, nut shells, cherry or peach pits and glass rings.

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The Way to Scotchgard a Massive Couch

Sizes stain inhibitors prevent liquids from quickly penetrating the surface of couch fabric. While they don’t prevent liquids from penetrating totally, they usually maintain the liquids on the surface long enough to give you time to have the paper towels.

Sizes Away

Buy spray stain inhibitor designed for upholstery fabrics. Check the label for the square footage of coverage at each can and buy enough to give your couch at least four coats of spray. Test the spray on an inconspicuous section of the couch, checking for cloth colour fastness, and if the spray shifts the pliability of the cloth — particularly on microfiber, chenille or velvet. Remove the pillows and at a well-ventilated room, spray the couch. Begin at the peak of the rear and cover the surface with an additional spray. Examine the application directions for the best distance to maintain the can from the fabric. Let the couch dry, then apply the rest three coats — just one after every drying session. Spray one side of each one of the pillows, allow it to dry, then spray the remaining side. Should you place clean a section of the couch afterwards, reapply the spray to the washed area.

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The way to Dye a White Lampshade

It’s easy to find the ideal size and manner of lampshade to your favorite lamp. It is not really easy to find your favorite color, since most lampshades are beige or white. If you love the lampshade, but lengthy for color, there is no need to settle for bland. It is possible to dye a white cotton or other natural cloth lampshade any color you fancy, or even create ombre or two-color consequences. Before starting the project, be certain that you have a bucket or clean garbage can big enough to submerge your entire lampshade.

Single Color Technique

Put on rubber gloves to protect your fingernails and skin in the dye.

Mix the dye with enough hot water to completely submerge the lampshade from the bucket. Follow the instructions on the wax package to get the right ratio of dye to water.

Mist your lampshade with water till the entire surface is moist. This allows better penetration of the dye.

Decrease your lampshade into the dye bath until it’s completely submerged. Use a spoon or stick to stir the dye continuously.

Lift the lampshade out of this dye every couple of minutes to check about the color. The more the lampshade is in the dye, the darker the last results. Expect to soak the lampshade for 10 to 30 minutes, depending on your desired color intensity.

Remove the lampshade in the dye, and place it on old blankets or towels to dry.

Ombre Technique

Put on rubber gloves to protect your fingernails and skin in the dye.

Mix dye with hot water from your bucket, following the manufacturer’s instructions for the appropriate ratio of dye to water.

Mist your lampshade with water till it’s damp, but not dripping.

Submerge the lampshade from the dye bucket. Maintain the water moving with a stick or spoon.

Lift the lampshade out of this dye after two minutes. Reduce the lampshade back into the dye, but this time, hold the lampshade to ensure the top is above the dye.

Boost your lampshade higher every three to five minutes. Create a bold ombre effect by exposing more of this lampshade with each lift, or even a more subtle effect by slowly raising the shade. Remember that the more the lampshade is in the dye, the darker the last color.

Remove the lampshade in the dye when the underside edge reaches your desired color intensity. Sit the lampshade on old blankets or towels until it’s dry.

Two-Color Technique

Put on rubber gloves to protect your fingernails and hands in the dye.

Use two buckets to mix unique colors of dye with hot water, following the manufacturer’s instructions for appropriate dye-to-water ratio.

Reduce the bottom half of your lampshade into one of the dye baths. Use a spoon or stick to stir the dye continuously.

Lift the shade out of this dye every couple of minutes to check about the color. When the lampshade reaches your desired color intensity, remove it in the dye.

Reduce the top half of this lampshade into your second dye bath. Follow the process outlined in steps 3 and 4.

Establish your lampshade on old rags or towels till it’s dry.

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The way to find Old Wax Off of Wood Floors

Floor wax is typically made from animal, mineral or vegetable fats that never really dry. While wax provides protection against moisture, it isn’t a durable finish and has to be reapplied frequently. Over the years, this contributes to a buildup of old wax on your floor that makes refinishing hard, because you cannot apply a more durable finish, like polyurethane, until virtually all traces of wax have been removed. Removing old wax from wood floors is time-consuming, however, it isn’t an impossible task.

Sweep away loose dirt, mud and other debris, and mop the floor using warm water to remove any grime or residues in the wood’s surface.

Pour a small quantity of mineral spirits directly onto a 2-square foot section of floor. Working in small sections makes it easier to make sure that you eliminated the wax. Do not move onto a new section until you’ve eliminated as much as possible from the previous one.

Scrub a clean cloth or rag in half an hour and function the mineral spirits to the wax. Use a circular movement to wash the wax in the floor.

Wipe the floor dry with a second fabric and put on the mineral spirits a second time. Wipe the floor with a fabric. If a yellow deposits still shows on the cloth, this implies there’s still wax present. Scrub the floor again with mineral spirits until no more yellow deposits appears on your fabric.

Keep applying the mineral spirits and scrubbing until you have removed as much of the wax as you can in the timber.

Scrub heavy wax buildup with fine steel wool when the fabric doesn’t remove all residues, and wipe with a clean, dry cloth.

Continue working in 2-foot sections until the whole floor is cleared of wax. Change your cloths often to prevent redepositing wax onto the floor.

Leave the wood to dry thoroughly before applying any finish products. It’s important to be sure all traces of wax are eliminated before employing or sanding finish products to your hardwood because waxy deposits on the surface or at the pores of the timber will interfere with adhesion and will make sanding difficult since it might clog the seams.

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How to Wash Fleas on Laminate Floors

If fleas are in your laminate floors, it isn’t because they want to be there. They would much rather be nestled cozily on your pets’ fur, and they probably fell off. They’ll head for the gaps involving flooring planks where water, steam and other flea-controlling liquids should never proceed.

Flea Control With Baking Soda and Salt

Few products that claim to control fleas are 100 percent successful, so instead of spending money on an expensive flea powder or spray, consider using baking soda and salt. Both of these common household products, when combined together, can desiccate and ruin the eggs left between the floorboards, and they’re able to do the exact same to adult fleas. You may use the salt and baking soda separately, but it’s much easier to mix them together in identical proportions. You are going to need a cup of each.


Start the flea control procedure by removing everything in the floor and taking it outside, where you should treat it separately. Place the baking soda and salt mixture in a plastic condiment container with a spout, and squeeze the powder over the floor. Sweep the powder into the cracks, then allow it to remain there overnight. Vacuum the floor thoroughly in the morning with a soft attachment that won’t scrape the laminate finish. You might need to repeat this treatment in three to four days to kill larvae from eggs that have hatched.

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What Is the Difference Between Dry Mopping and Wet Mopping?

When it comes to mopping, both dry and wet methods have their benefits, but one method doesn’t necessarily replace the opposite in all times. Dry mopping, a little like sweeping, picks up dust, dirt, crumbs and random items littering the ground. Wet mopping comes in handy for spills and stains and caked-on debris which doesn’t come up with a dry mop.

Dry-Mop Options

Dry mops, also called dust mops, have either a fabric-based head or a disposable pad that is replaced after each use. Each type is intended to collect and trap dust, hair and fine particles since you swipe it over the ground. Keep the head in contact with the ground as you mop, lifting it only to empty accumulated debris from the trash or to shake the mop outside. For disposable methods, discard the mat and then replace it with a brand new one. Dry mops are capable of wiping up dry things — they are not intended to absorb spilled liquids, for instance.

Wet-Mop Basics

Wet mops vary considerably from 1 version to another, but generally, they involve a rag or sponge head which you dip into a bucket full of soapy water or ground cleaner, depending on the ground type. Some contemporary versions have a built-in reservoir for spraying the cleaner over the ground rather than dipping the mop to a bucket. Wipe the floor with a wet mop only after sweeping or dry mopping; otherwise, you may make the flooring muddy or more dirty. Wet mopping requires regular rinsing of the mop head or re-application of this cleaning solution to get an entire floor clean. This method is ideal for dried spills.

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How to: Step-By-Step Mushroom Grow Bag

Inoculating wooden logs using mushroom spores is an maintenance process that is growing, but availability of sufficient logs and limited space to keep them induce individuals to look for a different solution. Mushroom grow bags are a item that help grow huge quantities of mushrooms at a compact setting. So that air could be traded with all the mycelium, they are sterile plastic bags that have a filter interface. Grow bags could be sent waiting to be filled with substrate and climbing substrate already sealed inside the bag, or empty.

Put on a breathing mask and latex or nitrile gloves so that as the bags are handled by you, so they remain as clean as you can. Spray a disinfectant, like Lysol, into the atmosphere where you will work to disinfect the area. Wipe your gloves wash with alcohol wipes.

Open bags grow and fill with your substrate that is growing that is preferred. Without packaging too closely, Put the bags in a pressure cooker, so that the warmth is able to fully penetrate the medium that is growing, and heat for 3 hours.

Allow the closed pressure stove to cool to room temperature so that it could be safely handled.

Seal the bags upon opening the pressure cooker so that as little air can enter the medium and induce contamination.

Wait for the bags to cool for 12 hours, and place a piece of packing tape on the side of the bag.

Inject your mushroom spawn or liquid culture by pushing the needle through the packaging tape and straight into the substrate that is growing. If you would like to lower the time that it takes the mycelium to completely fill the substrate this may be done in several places.

Cover the injection hole to reseal the bag.

Move the mushroom grow bag to an area using fluorescent or indirect lighting. Research whether warmer or cooler temperatures are preferred by your particular mushroom species, and keep the bag within 4 degrees of the mushroom range.

Whether kept at warmer temperatures monitor the bag does not dry out. If the substrate does dry out, inject a small amount of water that is filtered using a syringe and reseal the hole with tape.

Harvest the mushrooms if they are. Mushrooms can be eaten at any stage, but always select them by the time they are fully mature or they will rot from the bag. Mushrooms are fully ripe when the cap is open along with the thin covering over the gills starts to rip. Depending upon the species of mushroom, it may take several weeks to begin fruiting.

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