How to Dry Plywood

Plywood consists of thin layers of softwood laminated together using a strong, adhesive-like urea formaldehyde or polyurethane. While the adhesive is waterproof, the wooden layers aren’t, and they are able to swell or deform when exposed to moisture. The adhesive bonds weakens if the wood stays wet for a protracted interval, and the layers can finally separate. This is a frequent phenomenon when plywood is used for basement walls, exterior siding and subfloors. Once plywood has become moist, you need to encourage the water which has soaked into the wood fibers to evaporate to allow it to be dry again.

Stack loose sheets of wet plywood in a dry place with plenty of flow. Place blocks between the sheets so that air can circulate across both faces of every sheet, and makes sure all of the edges are vulnerable.

Expose the faces of sheets which are installed in a floor, ceiling or wall and can’t be removed. Wipe any standing water using a sponge, and circulate air around the moist areas with a fan.

Eliminate wet sheets of plywood from wherever they’re installed, if at all possible, which means you can circulate air across the borders. The advantages are the parts of the sheets which are most vulnerable to water damage and might stay moist even if both faces dry out.

Boost the surrounding temperature to speed drying. If the sheets are in closed area, raise the room heat or place a mobile heater nearby. You can also lower the ambient humidity by running a dehumidifier. If you’re drying sheets outside, stack them in sunlight.

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How to Clean Up a Dull Wood Finish

The finish on wood furniture dulls with age, exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays and also the application of several wax layers over the years. However, before you can begin the cleanup procedure to restore your furniture’s finish, you have to identify it to learn the proper products to use. Possible finishes include penetrating oil, varnish, lacquer, shellac and wax. Once you decide the final finish coat, if it’s not blistered or cracked, then you can clean and restore it rather than removing and reapplying it. Select a concealed area on the wooden object — the rear that faces the wall, the inside of a leg or beneath an edge or lip — to check the kind of finish.

Identify the Finish

Daub the cotton ball or clean cloth in denatured or rubbing alcohol. Rub on the chosen, but unseen, place on the wood object with the cotton ball or cloth.

Watch the area closely for changes to this finish. Rubbing alcohol softens shellac finishes, but turns lacquered finishes milky white. If the rubbing alcohol had no effect on the finish, the finish could consist of wax, penetrating oil or masonry. Check the item to get a coat of masonry — a challenging finish — simply by digging a fingernail or a little toothpick into a hidden area of the finish. A varnish coat does not score and contains a luster for it. A toothpick mars the wood itself if the product was completed with penetrating oil or wax.

Confirm a lacquer finish by applying lacquer thinner to a cotton ball or ball. Rub a place near the place you first tested with the lacquer thinner. If you notice that the lacquer becomes soft with the application of lacquer thinner, you’ve identified the finish.

Evaluation for the existence of wax by dabbing the unseen area with a little bit of mineral spirits on a cotton ball or rag if the other methods did nothing. If the finish dissolves once you dab it with the mineral spirits, then it includes wax. If you test with these methods and the finish does not change, penetrating oil has been used as the final finish. You cannot eliminate a penetrating oil finish, because it has soaked into the wood already — however, you can restore it.

Wash and Restore the Finish

Remove all of the hardware in the wood furniture before proceeding. Eliminate casters, escutcheons — little shields, emblems or coats of arms — hinges, drawer pulls and knobs. Wash and polish the hardware before placing these items apart with their screws.

Separate a piece of 0000 steel wool and dip it in the correct diluent for shellac or lacquer finishes — rubbing alcohol or lacquer thinner — and rub the wood surface, working at the direction of the grain. You need to work fast, because the solvent causes the finish to turn sticky and gummy after softening. Apply even and smooth, but fast, strokes in the direction of the wood grain. For light cracks in the finish, use a paintbrush to apply the solvent. Smooth the softened finish by working the paintbrush or steel wool with the grain. Keep working until the finish takes on a flat, even and smooth appearance. When finish becomes smooth, allow it to dry.

Dampen an area of a clean fabric with a little bit of mineral spirits to get items with wax finishes. When the wax finish dulls, you need to totally eliminate the wax and then reapply it to revive its finish. Rub the dampened fabric on the wood at the direction of the grain. Permit the mineral spirits to sit around the wax surface to get a couple of minutes to help soften and loosen dirt and grunge. Remove the dirt and old wax with a clean, soft cloth. Repeat as needed until the wax is gone.

Clean the surface of a wood piece covered with a penetrating oil with a little bit of turpentine rubbed into the wood’s surface. Work at the direction of the grain with a piece of steel wool. Thoroughly clean the entire surface of the wood object, paying attention to water-stained or discolored areas. Let it dry.

Recondition a varnish finish by combining 1 part turpentine with 3 parts of boiled linseed oil completely. Employ a dime-sized amount to some piece of steel wool. Wipe the steel wool in the direction of the grain. If this does not have any effect — and it may not because of unique varnishes — include the turpentine and linseed oil mixture to a small jar with a lid. Shake the jar thoroughly before emptying the contents on the surface of a little bowl that contains heated water. Dunk a corner of a clean cloth into the oily mixture atop the water and then apply it into the wood in the direction of the grain, working in small sections. After cleaning, wipe the object with a cloth soaked in warm, clean water and wrung out to get rid of excess moisture. Dry with a clean, soft cloth.

Finish the restoration by applying another coat of lacquer, shellac, varnish or penetrating oil, if needed. You can also apply a coat of beeswax, furniture cream or paste wax as desired or needed. For older varnished pieces, use a furniture polish instead.

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The way to Replace Grout

Cracking and crumbling grout falling from your tiles is frequently a sign of a badly mixed or installed grout. When this happens, water can seep between the tiles, cause harm to the wall supporting the tiles or loosen the tiles, causing them to fall in the wall. You must remove the old grout before you replace it with fresh grout. Be sure to use the correct grout for your tile application, such as unsanded grout with latex additive for bathroom tile or sanded grout for floor tile using joints wider than 1/8 inch.

Eliminate old grout from between the tiles using a grout saw, an oscillating tool using a carbide cutter blade along with a rotary tool with a carbide grout removal bit. A grout saw takes you to transfer the saw back and forth manually to remove the grout, even though a rotary or oscillating tool takes less effort.

Clean the distance left between the tiles with water and an old toothbrush. Wash the area well with fresh, clean water and enable the tile to dry for 24 hours.

Pour powdered grout to your bucket. Add a small amount of water and then mix the grout using a margin trowel. Continue to add small amounts of water until the grout reaches the consistency of peanut butter.

Allow the grout to sit undisturbed for about 10 minutes. Use the margin trowel to remix the esophagus. Do not add water.

Scoop some grout in the bucket using a rubber grout float. Hold the float at a 45-degree angle from the tile and then sweep the float diagonally across the tile, pushing the esophagus to the grout lines.

Eliminate the excess grout from the surface of the tiles using a clean grout float. Hold the float at a 90-degree angle from the tile. Sweep the grout float across the seams diagonally, choosing the excess grout.

Consider five minutes to get the grout to dry. Press your thumbnail to the esophagus; when it leaves an indentation, wait another five minutes and check the grout with your thumbnail once again. Wait until your thumbnail does not leave a feeling before cleaning the tile.

Clean the tile surface using a water-dampened grout sponge. Use short strokes to eliminate any remaining irritation, rinsing the sponge frequently with clean water.

Wipe the tile surface with a moist soft cloth to remove any grout haze. Buff the tiles using a soft dry cloth immediately after removing the haze.

Fill a general-purpose spray bottle with clean water. Mist the new grout a couple of times a day for three days.

Apply grout sealer having a artist paintbrush. Wash any sealer from the surface of the tile immediately. Let the grout dry for at least 24 hours.

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