What Size Belt Does My 2000 Series Cub Cadet Tractor Use?

When purchasing a replacement belt to your Cub Cadet 2000 series tractor, pick it based on your own deck size, version number and the dimensions of the belt . Appropriate size is vital for the belt to fit on the tractor. For example, the model number for a Cub Cadet 2000 series tractor with a 44- or 48-inch deck is OCC-954-3068.

Model Numbers

The size of straps required for Cub Cadet 2000 series mowers varies depending on deck dimensions. For 38- and 42-inch decks, belts are 110 1/2 inches long and 5/8 inch thick. The straps can be stretched, which explains why they fit on different deck sizes, but shouldn’t be used with a deck dimensions that they’re not designed for. The version number of your tractor is in the manual which came with your tractor, and on the device . Consider the underside of the chair to find it. It will help you identify the belt you need.

See related

John Deere EZtrak Z225 Review

The John Deere EZtrak Z225 is a lever-steered, zero-turn-radius riding lawn mower. It gains from John Deere’s reputation for reliability and quality, but its compact engine and majority may make it less nimble than its rivals. As of 2014, John Deere is no longer manufacturing the Z225, but some retailers have units available.

Engine, Transmission and PTO

The Z225 is powered by a 500 cc single-cylinder engine rated at 18.5 horsepower. It is equipped with an electric start system powered by a 12-volt batterypowered. The engine’s power is transferred to the rear wheels via dual Hydro-Gear EZT transmissions, along with the machine can attain a maximum forward speed of 7 mph and a maximum reverse speed of 3.5 mph. The Z225 is equipped with a PTO that generates 105 foot-pounds of torque. Compared to models from makers that are competing, the Z225 is a little underpowered; Cub Cadet’s RZT 42, as an example, is equipped with a Kohler engine, as is your Ariens Gravely ZT 42.

Deck

The stamped-steel deck of the Z225 utilizes two blades to cut a swath. Its cutting height is adjustable using a hand lever at increments between 1 and 4 inches. The Z225’s deck is similar to that of the Ariens ZT 42, but its 12-gauge steel deck is much lighter compared to the 13-gauge deck around the Cub Cadet RZT 42. The deck of the RZT 42 offers fewer height adjustment options.

Dimensions

Despite its power lack, the Z225 is considerably heavier than the Ariens and the Cub Cadet, a discrepancy which could lead to a scarcity of sprightliness. Whereas the Cub Cadet weighs 480 pounds along with the Ariens 440 pounds, the Z225 weighs at 545 pounds. The Ariens is more compact compared to Deere, too, with an overall length of 64 inches compared to the Z225’s 74 inches.

Newer Model

At John Deere’s 2014 product lineup, the slot formerly occupied by the Z225 is filled from the Z235, a weapon whose electricity is more in accord with that of its rivals. The Z235 is equipped with a 656 cc engine which generates 20 horsepower. The Z235 lags behind the Cub Cadet RZT 42 electricity plant, although the Ariens Zoom includes a 20-horsepower motor also.

See related

How to Clean Up a Dull Wood Finish

The finish on wood furniture dulls with age, exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays and also the application of several wax layers over the years. However, before you can begin the cleanup procedure to restore your furniture’s finish, you have to identify it to learn the proper products to use. Possible finishes include penetrating oil, varnish, lacquer, shellac and wax. Once you decide the final finish coat, if it’s not blistered or cracked, then you can clean and restore it rather than removing and reapplying it. Select a concealed area on the wooden object — the rear that faces the wall, the inside of a leg or beneath an edge or lip — to check the kind of finish.

Identify the Finish

Daub the cotton ball or clean cloth in denatured or rubbing alcohol. Rub on the chosen, but unseen, place on the wood object with the cotton ball or cloth.

Watch the area closely for changes to this finish. Rubbing alcohol softens shellac finishes, but turns lacquered finishes milky white. If the rubbing alcohol had no effect on the finish, the finish could consist of wax, penetrating oil or masonry. Check the item to get a coat of masonry — a challenging finish — simply by digging a fingernail or a little toothpick into a hidden area of the finish. A varnish coat does not score and contains a luster for it. A toothpick mars the wood itself if the product was completed with penetrating oil or wax.

Confirm a lacquer finish by applying lacquer thinner to a cotton ball or ball. Rub a place near the place you first tested with the lacquer thinner. If you notice that the lacquer becomes soft with the application of lacquer thinner, you’ve identified the finish.

Evaluation for the existence of wax by dabbing the unseen area with a little bit of mineral spirits on a cotton ball or rag if the other methods did nothing. If the finish dissolves once you dab it with the mineral spirits, then it includes wax. If you test with these methods and the finish does not change, penetrating oil has been used as the final finish. You cannot eliminate a penetrating oil finish, because it has soaked into the wood already — however, you can restore it.

Wash and Restore the Finish

Remove all of the hardware in the wood furniture before proceeding. Eliminate casters, escutcheons — little shields, emblems or coats of arms — hinges, drawer pulls and knobs. Wash and polish the hardware before placing these items apart with their screws.

Separate a piece of 0000 steel wool and dip it in the correct diluent for shellac or lacquer finishes — rubbing alcohol or lacquer thinner — and rub the wood surface, working at the direction of the grain. You need to work fast, because the solvent causes the finish to turn sticky and gummy after softening. Apply even and smooth, but fast, strokes in the direction of the wood grain. For light cracks in the finish, use a paintbrush to apply the solvent. Smooth the softened finish by working the paintbrush or steel wool with the grain. Keep working until the finish takes on a flat, even and smooth appearance. When finish becomes smooth, allow it to dry.

Dampen an area of a clean fabric with a little bit of mineral spirits to get items with wax finishes. When the wax finish dulls, you need to totally eliminate the wax and then reapply it to revive its finish. Rub the dampened fabric on the wood at the direction of the grain. Permit the mineral spirits to sit around the wax surface to get a couple of minutes to help soften and loosen dirt and grunge. Remove the dirt and old wax with a clean, soft cloth. Repeat as needed until the wax is gone.

Clean the surface of a wood piece covered with a penetrating oil with a little bit of turpentine rubbed into the wood’s surface. Work at the direction of the grain with a piece of steel wool. Thoroughly clean the entire surface of the wood object, paying attention to water-stained or discolored areas. Let it dry.

Recondition a varnish finish by combining 1 part turpentine with 3 parts of boiled linseed oil completely. Employ a dime-sized amount to some piece of steel wool. Wipe the steel wool in the direction of the grain. If this does not have any effect — and it may not because of unique varnishes — include the turpentine and linseed oil mixture to a small jar with a lid. Shake the jar thoroughly before emptying the contents on the surface of a little bowl that contains heated water. Dunk a corner of a clean cloth into the oily mixture atop the water and then apply it into the wood in the direction of the grain, working in small sections. After cleaning, wipe the object with a cloth soaked in warm, clean water and wrung out to get rid of excess moisture. Dry with a clean, soft cloth.

Finish the restoration by applying another coat of lacquer, shellac, varnish or penetrating oil, if needed. You can also apply a coat of beeswax, furniture cream or paste wax as desired or needed. For older varnished pieces, use a furniture polish instead.

See related

How to Clean Rubber Seal About Shower Doors

The rubber caulk seal around your shower door maintains water from seeping out onto your ground, but in addition it can trap soap scum and germs. If your bathroom remains warm and damp, mildew may begin to form across the bathtub’s rubber seal. Industrial mildew and soap-scum cleaners are formulated to clean it, but you don’t have to use harsh chemicals. Do not replace shower caulk till you’ve tried cleaning; even if the seal is black, then you may have the ability to whiten it again.

Borax or Baking Soda

Mix 1 cup of borax powder or baking soda with 2 tbsp mild liquid soap, such as castile soap or dishwashing liquid. Add 2 cups of warm water and stir.

Dip a soft toothbrush to the liquid and scrub the rubber seal. Leave the mixture on for 15 minutes.

Rinse by filling a big cup with warm water and pouring the water above the seal.

Vinegar

Mix 1 cup of white vinegar with 1 cup water in a spray bottle. Add 1 teaspoon of castile soap or dishwashing liquid.

Spray the seal using the vinegar mixture. Leave the mixture on for 15 minutes.

Scrub the seal using a soft toothbrush, spraying each section again just before scrubbing.

Rinse by filling a big cup with warm water and pouring the water above the seal.

Mix 1/4 cup liquid chlorine bleach with 3/4 cup of water in a spray bottle.

Turn on the bathroom vent or open the windows.

Spray the seal using the bleach mixture. Let it sit for 15 minutes.

Put on rubber gloves and scrub the seal using a soft toothbrush, spraying each section again just before scrubbing.

Rinse by filling a big cup with water and pouring it over the rubber.

See related

How to Clean Crystal Quartz Countertops

Crystal quartz countertops provide a high-shine and maintenance-free alternative to granite. Like any stone surface, quartz demands gentle cleaning. Avoid acidic and abrasive cleansers to help the countertop keep its luster. Reducing down your crystal granite countertops daily will keep them looking good for ages.

Wet a non-abrasive sponge with warm water.

Squeeze a drop of dishwashing liquid or another mild soap onto the sponge. Squeeze the sponge to make suds.

Wipe the countertops using the soapy sponge. Rinse the sponge and wipe the countertop.

Spray dried food spills with non-acidic glass and hard surface cleaner or stone cleaner.

Let the cleaner sit for a moment or two, if needed, and wipe using a sponge that is crocheted.

See related

The way to Dye a White Lampshade

It’s easy to find the ideal size and manner of lampshade to your favorite lamp. It is not really easy to find your favorite color, since most lampshades are beige or white. If you love the lampshade, but lengthy for color, there is no need to settle for bland. It is possible to dye a white cotton or other natural cloth lampshade any color you fancy, or even create ombre or two-color consequences. Before starting the project, be certain that you have a bucket or clean garbage can big enough to submerge your entire lampshade.

Single Color Technique

Put on rubber gloves to protect your fingernails and skin in the dye.

Mix the dye with enough hot water to completely submerge the lampshade from the bucket. Follow the instructions on the wax package to get the right ratio of dye to water.

Mist your lampshade with water till the entire surface is moist. This allows better penetration of the dye.

Decrease your lampshade into the dye bath until it’s completely submerged. Use a spoon or stick to stir the dye continuously.

Lift the lampshade out of this dye every couple of minutes to check about the color. The more the lampshade is in the dye, the darker the last results. Expect to soak the lampshade for 10 to 30 minutes, depending on your desired color intensity.

Remove the lampshade in the dye, and place it on old blankets or towels to dry.

Ombre Technique

Put on rubber gloves to protect your fingernails and skin in the dye.

Mix dye with hot water from your bucket, following the manufacturer’s instructions for the appropriate ratio of dye to water.

Mist your lampshade with water till it’s damp, but not dripping.

Submerge the lampshade from the dye bucket. Maintain the water moving with a stick or spoon.

Lift the lampshade out of this dye after two minutes. Reduce the lampshade back into the dye, but this time, hold the lampshade to ensure the top is above the dye.

Boost your lampshade higher every three to five minutes. Create a bold ombre effect by exposing more of this lampshade with each lift, or even a more subtle effect by slowly raising the shade. Remember that the more the lampshade is in the dye, the darker the last color.

Remove the lampshade in the dye when the underside edge reaches your desired color intensity. Sit the lampshade on old blankets or towels until it’s dry.

Two-Color Technique

Put on rubber gloves to protect your fingernails and hands in the dye.

Use two buckets to mix unique colors of dye with hot water, following the manufacturer’s instructions for appropriate dye-to-water ratio.

Reduce the bottom half of your lampshade into one of the dye baths. Use a spoon or stick to stir the dye continuously.

Lift the shade out of this dye every couple of minutes to check about the color. When the lampshade reaches your desired color intensity, remove it in the dye.

Reduce the top half of this lampshade into your second dye bath. Follow the process outlined in steps 3 and 4.

Establish your lampshade on old rags or towels till it’s dry.

See related

The way to Replace Grout

Cracking and crumbling grout falling from your tiles is frequently a sign of a badly mixed or installed grout. When this happens, water can seep between the tiles, cause harm to the wall supporting the tiles or loosen the tiles, causing them to fall in the wall. You must remove the old grout before you replace it with fresh grout. Be sure to use the correct grout for your tile application, such as unsanded grout with latex additive for bathroom tile or sanded grout for floor tile using joints wider than 1/8 inch.

Eliminate old grout from between the tiles using a grout saw, an oscillating tool using a carbide cutter blade along with a rotary tool with a carbide grout removal bit. A grout saw takes you to transfer the saw back and forth manually to remove the grout, even though a rotary or oscillating tool takes less effort.

Clean the distance left between the tiles with water and an old toothbrush. Wash the area well with fresh, clean water and enable the tile to dry for 24 hours.

Pour powdered grout to your bucket. Add a small amount of water and then mix the grout using a margin trowel. Continue to add small amounts of water until the grout reaches the consistency of peanut butter.

Allow the grout to sit undisturbed for about 10 minutes. Use the margin trowel to remix the esophagus. Do not add water.

Scoop some grout in the bucket using a rubber grout float. Hold the float at a 45-degree angle from the tile and then sweep the float diagonally across the tile, pushing the esophagus to the grout lines.

Eliminate the excess grout from the surface of the tiles using a clean grout float. Hold the float at a 90-degree angle from the tile. Sweep the grout float across the seams diagonally, choosing the excess grout.

Consider five minutes to get the grout to dry. Press your thumbnail to the esophagus; when it leaves an indentation, wait another five minutes and check the grout with your thumbnail once again. Wait until your thumbnail does not leave a feeling before cleaning the tile.

Clean the tile surface using a water-dampened grout sponge. Use short strokes to eliminate any remaining irritation, rinsing the sponge frequently with clean water.

Wipe the tile surface with a moist soft cloth to remove any grout haze. Buff the tiles using a soft dry cloth immediately after removing the haze.

Fill a general-purpose spray bottle with clean water. Mist the new grout a couple of times a day for three days.

Apply grout sealer having a artist paintbrush. Wash any sealer from the surface of the tile immediately. Let the grout dry for at least 24 hours.

See related

What Is the Base for Apple Tree Graft?

Growing an apple tree from seed may create an apple tree that’s different than its parent. All commercially offered apple trees are grafted trees. A branch, referred to as a scion, or even a grass from a desired apple tree is grafted to a acceptable foundation or rootstock. Deciding on the best rootstock is critical as it helps to ascertain the size of this tree, disease and pest resistance and what circumstances, such as drought or flooding, the tree can withstand. Rootstocks are generally categorized by their ability to ascertain tree size.

Rootstocks for Really Small Trees

In the 1990s, the East Malling Research Station in Britain started to classify apple rootstocks with their magnitude. The M27 (Malling 27) rootstock has one of the greatest dwarfing results on apple trees, making them grow no longer than 6 feet tall. M27 allows fruiting at two years and results in the tree to be immune to this fungus Phytophthora, which causes crown rot. However, the tree is susceptible to mildew and fireblight. The Polish P22 (Podkladki 22) rootstock also produces a tiny tree, but the tree is less susceptible to mildew and fireblight. The G65 (Geneva 65) rootstock was created particularly for North American conditions. G65-based trees are resistant to crown rot and fireblight and are just marginally larger than M27.

Rootstocks for Little Trees

M9 was the very first rootstock to become broadly available and it is still used today. M9-based trees reach 8 feet and fruit in two to three years. The major drawback is that the susceptibility to fireblight and lack of cold hardiness. The G11 rootstock is similar to M9, except the apple trees are very resistant to fireblight and may not fruit until three to four years after planting. Bud 9 (Budagovsky 9) is just a rootstock similar to M9, but it has very good winter hardiness.

Rootstock for Medium Trees

The M26 rootstock produces a medium-sized or semi-dwarf tree of about 10 feet. It results in the apple tree to fruit following three to four years. M26 has similar properties to the dwarfing M9 rootstock and trees are susceptible to fireblight, crown rot and the woolly aphid. In contrast, the M7 rootstock produces a medium-sized tree resistant to fireblight. The G30 rootstock is well adapted to North American states and rises a productive apple tree. G30-based trees are resistant to fireblight and can withstand flood. The most important disadvantage of G30 is that trees need permanent staking.

Rootstocks for Big Trees

Several rootstocks create large, vigorous apple trees 14 to 18 feet high, but these trees take up more space and are more difficult to prune. MM106 (Malling-Merton 106) permits fruiting in three to four years The MM106-based trees are resistant to woolly aphids, however not fireblight or crown rot. The MM111 rootstock grows well in poor soil and apple trees begin fruiting in four to five years. MM111 benefits are good general disease resistance and the ability to grow well during drought conditions. The Bud 118 rootstock is similar to MM111, but has much better cold hardiness and trees symbolize large traditional apple trees.

Interstem Rootstocks

An interstem rootstock consists of 2 rootstocks, one rootstock grafted on top of another. The scion, which establishes the apple variety, is grafted to the top rootstock. By choosing the right blend of rootstocks, you can design an apple tree suited to your specific area and conditions. As an instance, a M9/MM111 rootstock has the good qualities of M9, however far better drought tolerance and a stronger root system. The most common combinations utilize MM111 or Bud 118 on the underside with different rootstocks grafted on top.

See related

Why Do Dogwood Trees Are Both Red and Blue Berries Through the Autumn?

Flowering dogwood shrubs and trees (Cornus) are members of a genus that feature about sixty-five species, all indigenous to the northern hemisphere. Many are distinguished by showy flower heads, flowers or bracts. Big or small, the flowers always have four petals. Popular varieties, like common flowering dogwood (Cornus florida), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) hardiness zones 5 through 8, bear reddish autumn fruits. Some varieties, however, feature drop fruits that are red when immature and turn blue-black or dark as they age.

Fruits

Dogwood fruits can be either red, blue-black or white at maturity. All these are classified as “drupes,” meaning the actual seed is enclosed in a stony wall, which is in turn enclosed with a fleshy exterior layer. Trees and shrubs in the genus often have round or oblong fall fruits, however Kousa dogwoods (Cornus kousa), hardy in zones 8 and 7, bear fruits that look like strawberries. Dogwood fruits are attractive and edible to birds and small animals. Some species’ fruits may cause mild gastric distress in humans.

Shrubs

White-flowered black-fruit dogwood (Cornus sessilis) is hardy in zones 7 through 10 and bears red fruit which ages to black in the autumn. It is a multistemmed shrub that grows to 15 feet tall. Growing from 6 to 12 feet tall, with an equal spread, silky dogwood (Cornus amomum) is a deciduous shrub bearing clusters of small white flowers and fruit which ages to dark. It is hardy in zones 5 through 8.

Trees

Hardy in zones 6 through 8 or 9, Cornus controversa bears clusters of small, star-shaped blooms, rather than the bigger blossoms of more common varieties. It is a spreading tree which rises to 45 feet tall and bears fruits which era from red to black in the autumn. Big-leaf dogwood (Cornus macrophylla) appears much like Cornus controversa, with fragrant clusters of white flowers. It is hardy in zones 6 through 9 and rises up to 30 feet tall.

Considerations

Generally, the dogwood species using the showiest flowers, like common dogwood (Cornus florida) and Oriental dogwood (Cornus kousa) bear red fruit that does not era to black. Cluster-flowered varieties are more inclined to have fruits which darken as they ripen in the fall. The combination of appealing flowers, excellent fall color in several varieties and species, brightly colored fresh growth in some species and showy autumn fruits make dogwood species great choices for woodland gardens, ponds gardens and designs where landscape elements must remain fascinating in three or maybe four seasons.

See related

How to Kill Sedge Grass at a Vegetable Garden

There are more than 900 types of sedge — a fast-growing, grasslike plant that loves moist, sunny locations — found throughout North America, which makes it one of the most common weeds you’ll encounter in your vegetable garden. Don’t let sedge rob your vegetable plants of the dirt space and nutrients they require. Using a combination of mechanical, chemical and cultural controls, then it is possible to kill sedge and produce an environment that’s unfriendly toward that vigorous weed.

Water your vegetable plants only when absolutely necessary and apply water directly at the base of each plant instead of using a sprinkler or indiscriminately spraying the whole garden. Sedge requires moist growing conditions, and its appearance generally means you are over-watering your vegetable harvest. Letting the soil dry out will often quickly kill this weed.

Arrange your vegetable plants as closely as possible in tight rows to shade the soil, and think about intermingling thin, tall vegetable plants with large, leafy vegetables, such as lettuce or chard. This helps shade the vegetable garden as most sedges cannot tolerate shade, it may tighten or kills existing sedge when decreasing the growth of new sedge.

Pull the sedge out by hand by grasping the weed at its bottom and pulling upwards. Hand weeding typically leaves supporting the bud roots and it will regrow, but continuous removal forces the plant to utilize its energy to generate new shoots, and doing so once every two weeks will normally overstress the sedge and destroy it.

Spray the sedge using herbicide if all other methods of control and eradication don’t suffice. For the best results specifically against sedge weeds, then the herbicide should contain one of the following chemicals: sulfentrazone, bentazon, imazaquin or halosulfuron. Use the herbicide in line with the manufacturer-specific guidelines as toxicity and potency varies widely by product, and avoid getting the herbicide on any of your vegetable plants.

See related