How to Seal Fireplace Stone

Dirt and smoke out of the fireplace can blot the surrounding rocks quickly, and after the dirt is in, it can be difficult to get out. Seal the rock to get the jump on stains and dirt. Spray sealers are simple to apply and can be found at most hardware shops. Use an environmentally secure, water-based merchandise for easier cleaning and quicker drying time. A top notch penetrating sealer will protect the stone for years to come.

Remove dirt, dust or older sealers using a cleaning product meant for stone surfaces. Permit the stone to dry thoroughly.

Mask the perimeter of the fireplace, adjoining to the wall and the fireplace add, using wide painter’s tape. Tape everything that you don’t need sealed. Place masking paper on the wall and then secure it with tape.

Cover the fireplace add with painter’s plastic and fasten it using the painter’s tape. Cover the ground with a dropcloth.

Spray the rock fireplace with a liberal quantity of sealer. Make sure that you spray on the grout lines too. Permit the sealer to penetrate the surface for the total amount of time recommended by the manufacturer.

Wait 30 minutes, or for the total amount of time recommended by the manufacturer, and apply a second coat of sealer. Permit the sealer to penetrate for the total amount of time recommended by the manufacturer.

Perform a water test to determine if more sealer is necessary. Spray a little region of the rock with clean water. Permit the water to sit for 10 to 15 minutes. Wipe the area dry, using a sterile cloth. Employ more sealer in the event the area darkens. Multiple coats of sealer can be applied until you reach the desired coverage. Allow each coat to dry thoroughly before reapplying the sealer.

Wipe any excess sealer out of the rock using clean dry fabrics. Rewet stubborn regions using more sealer. Remove the excess with a clean, dry cloth. Dried excess can leave a dull film on the rock.

Allow the stone to remain untouched for the total amount of time recommended by the manufacturer. This guarantees adequate healing time.

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How to Recondition Leather Furniture

Leather furniture needs periodic reconditioning to keep it feeling and looking like new. As leather ages, it loses moisture, which may cause fractures and wear. Never use water or household cleaners that are not specified for use on leather, as they can cause more harm. Instead, add oil into the leather to recondition it. Use either pure mink oil or a specially formulated leather removal merchandise, found at furniture retailers and sporting goods stores.

Apply a small amount of leather cleaner in a small patch of leather near the underside of the couch and wait for it to make certain it leaves a desired appearance.

Disassemble the furniture, if appropriate, by eliminating cushions or other removable pieces.

Wet a microfiber fabric or the buffing or polishing accessory onto a rotary tool with leather cleaner and rub it on the leather until it begins to foam.

Wipe the cleaner off with a dry microfiber fabric.

Employ leather conditioner with a damp microfiber fabric or with the buffing or polishing pad of a rotary tool. Rub the surface with a circular motion with the fabric, working the conditioner to the leather and wiping off any excess as you go. If using the rotary power tool, use a low speed and transfer the tip throughout the surface in numerous directions.

Allow the conditioner to absorb for a couple hours before use.

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The Way to Eliminate Dried Stain Lap Marks onto a Deck

Staining may be a tricky job because it is often difficult to create the stain appear even and smooth. One common error when tenderness is applying the paint so you can observe the lap marks on the timber. Working slowly and taking away the paintbrush in the timber slowly as it runs out of stain will help stop these marks. You can combine these marks by removing the stain from shadowy areas of the lap mark and adding more stain to the mild areas.

Soak a clean cloth in paint thinner.

Rub the fabric over the dark areas of the lap marks. This will produce the lap marks less visible and eliminate some of the stain. Be careful not to remove too much stain.

Dip a cloth to the timber stain and rub it over the lighter areas on the lap mark.

Allow it to sit for 2 minutes.

Wipe the stain up using a clean cloth. Do not remove too much of the stain or you might reveal the coated lap mark.

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How Do I Tell if My Eucalyptus Tree in a Pot Is Dead?

Eucalyptus trees (Eucalyptus spp.) Are normally very hardy but may become weakened or diseased like any other kinds of trees. When grown in a pot, which can be a far more limiting surroundings compared to the ground, a eucalyptus is at an elevated health risk. If you plant a eucalyptus in a pot once the plant is small, it will have less chance of trouble. Keep your eye on the plant year-round. A potted eucalyptus tree that’s dead or dying displays certain signs.

Dead Giveaways

A dead or dying tree loses its leaves in massive amounts, turning bare sometimes very fast. Its bark may start to crack, peel, warp or kind holes that shouldn’t be there, signaling the tree isn’t getting any nutrients. When you water a dead eucalyptus tree, then the water may stand or pool across the roots instead of being absorbed by the roots. Dead limbs become brittle and may fall off the tree. Test your eucalyptus tree branches by bending or snapping them. If they’re pliable and bendy, and moist and green within, then they aren’t dead yet. If they break easily and are brown and dry inside, then they are dead.

Container Considerations

For the most part, eucalyptus is disease-resistant, but, to be safe, avoid growing any other plant in a pot that harbored disease. Eucalyptus doesn’t usually need a lot of water once it becomes established in its location. A pot, however, severely restricts its soil resources. Don’t use the exact same watering schedule for a potted eucalyptus that you would use for you planted in the ground. When a potted eucalyptus gets wilted all over, it might die. Give your potted eucalyptus a sunny location because shade can ruin it.

Other Care

Plant your eucalyptus in a pot when it is small, then keep it small with regular pruning of its canopy. Canopy size should mirror root dimension. So don’t allow the tree canopy get overly larger than the pot because the tree will probably be out of equilibrium and in danger of death. Amend the eucalyptus’ soil using a water-retaining medium such as compost, and water the soil to keep the compost constantly moist. Keep the tree from wind is important to stop it from toppling. Repeated toppling can cause the tree’s death.

Origin and Climate

Native to Australia, eucalyptus, or gum, trees are strong-smelling evergreens with usually gray, blue or green leaf. Fast-growing, sturdy and extremely adaptable, their hardiness zones — in which they live outdoors year-round — vary by species. By way of instance, argyle-apple (Eucalyptus cinerea) is hardy at U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. It’s curved, gray leaves clustered in rows along stems, hence its alternate title, silver dollar tree. Lemon-scented gum (Eucalyptus citriodora) is also hardy in USDA zones 8 through 11.

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Amazing Truth of Camellia Japonica

Japanese camellia (Camellia japonica), a flowering evergreen shrub, may also be grown as a small tree. It rises in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 to 9 and is indigenous to China, Korea and Japan. Camellias have been developed as both outdoor and conservatory plants. A careful look at the leaves reveals Japanese camellia is a member of the Theaceae, or tea family, closely related to Chinese camellia (Camellia sinensis) that the plant that supplies leaves used to make tea.


The great Swedish botanist Linnaeus, named the camellia for Georg Joseph Kamel, a Jesuit botanist, who understood nothing of the plant, however made significant collecting trips to the Philippines in the 1600s. The very first camellia to arrive in England in 1705 died in a nobleman’s overheated hothouse. Fortunately, cuttings had been taken from the plant and have been successfully grown on. Camellias arrived in the U.S. in the late 18th century, brought by French royal botanist Andre Michaux, who gave a few to Henry Middleton, owner of a South Carolina plantation. More than 200 years later, one of those original camellias is still booming.


Japanese camellias take many forms, a number of them uncommon. Among the most distinctive is that the novelty variety “Unryu Tsubaki,” which features stems that turn in a 45-degree angle at each leaf node, causing a mass of twisted, contorted branches. In addition, it has a virtually columnar shape, which is not typical for camellias. Another unusual camellia is “Kingyo Tsubaki,” also known as the fishtail camellia, which is distinguished by leaves with broken or dissected ends that curl upward and resemble fish tails.


The Japanese camellia is strongly symbolic in many cultures and particular plants are highly prized. The white-flowered camellia “Daijohkan” long prospered in the backyard of an imperial castle in Nagoya, Japan. Propagation of “Daijohkan” was officially illegal until 1964 due to its exalted status for a palace plant. The language of flowersthat thrived in Victorian times, assigned emotional messages or meanings to several flowers. White camellias stood for true excellence and faithfulness. Red blossoms were symbols of attractiveness. Unlike other floral emblems of attractiveness, the Japanese camellia doesn’t have any fragrance.

Camellia Houses

Victorians constructed special camellia houses because of their shrubs. 1 home, constructed at the Chatsworth estate in Derbyshire, England, in 1840, still stands. Some of its original plants continue to flower every spring. In 1848, American camellia collector, Noel Becar, constructed a 100-foot-long camellia home in Brooklyn, New York. Another collector, William Robertson Coe, of Oyster Bay, Long Island, whose company insured the Titanic, constructed a camellia home during World War I. It still stands. The original shipment of over a hundred camellias for Coe’s estate was torpedoed by a German submarine.

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Symbolic Flowers to Plant to a Grave

Throughout the Victorian age in the 1800s, with its emphasis on flower gardens and all things horticultural, the English established an elaborate system of floral symbolism. Every flower carried one or more significance when presented to some other person. A number of this symbolic nonverbal communication survives now. In a graveside setting, flowers can communicate grief and love, as well as hopes for the departed.


Astonishingly, the glowing, cheerful-looking marigold (Tagetes spp.) signifies grief. Observing the flower, you may observe that, with the setting of the sun, it folds up tight and lets its head droop. The long-lasting annuals will bloom from early summer until the first frost, if spent flowers are picked. A massive marigold variety (T. cempazuchitl) was correlated with Mexico’s celebration of the Day of the Dead as well as similar celebrations because the Aztecs’ time. Families plant and tend the flowers, thinking of the loved ones they’ve lost. The brilliant orange flowers serve as beacons to guide the deceased’s soul house, and for this special day, Mexicans believe the spirits of their loved ones are using them once more.


Especially for a girl’s grave, the pansy (Viola spp.) Conveys the Victorian values of tender attachment, concern and compassion. In cemetery symbolism, the pansy has begun to portray remembrance and humility. The pansy never needs attention, instead conveying thoughts like think of me, and keep me on your thoughts. These annuals provide multicolored flowers from winter through spring, or longer, in mild-winter places. Establish nursery plants out in the fall.


Dwarf periwinkles (Vinca minor) attribute 1-inch, five-petaled, lavender-blue flowers growing in a pinwheel shape. The simplicity of the blossom fits the logo of the periwinkle: tender recollections. Victorians planted it near memorial urns and graves and sometimes wound it to funeral wreaths. The perennial blossoms in summer, recalling the freshness of spring that’s gone. Plant the dwarf variety, as bigger periwinkles (V. major) are invasive plants. Miniature periwinkles flourish in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 10.


In cemeteries, the poppy (Papaver spp.) Denotes peace and perpetual sleep for the departed. Poppies’ large flowers make a powerful statement in spring and summer in colours like orange, yellow, salmon, pink, cream, white, red, purple and deep plum that’s virtually black. A frequent variety of the yearly is called “Flanders Field,” and the blossoms have been linked to Veterans Day, when memorial poppies are offered.

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How Is a Lemon Tree Identified?

Most plants, including the lemon tree (Citrus limon), are identified through their size, form, leaf, fruit and flower attributes. The lemon species is easily cultivated and hybridized, and many varieties are commercially productive. The lemon itself is a remarkable feature that’s easy to identify, however differences in other features also help identify one lemon tree from the other.

Lemon Tree Type, Leaf and Flower

The lemon tree is an evergreen species, growing 10 to 20 feet tall, usually with the open, spreading growth habit and lightly covered with foliage. The leaves have an elliptical shape, fine-toothed, waxy dark green on the top surface and light green underneath. The flower has five sepals, five petals, several pistils and a single stamen; the petals are white on the top surface and also pinkish-red on the other side. Citrus blossoms are fragrant; the caliber of the scent is an identifying characteristic in lemon types.


The lemon is really a berry (hesperidium), ranging in length from 2 3/4 inch into 4 3/4 inch. It’s ovoid in shape, covered with a peel ranging in color from light to deep yellow. Commercial growers often spray lemons with ethylene gas to encourage the yellow colour early in the season, but lemons may be ripe when the peel remains green. The juice content and taste of the lemon ranges from acidic to sweet, depending on the number.

Identifying Lemon Varieties

Slight differences in tree form, leaf colour and other features aid in comprehending a lemon tree variety. As an example, twigs on lemon tree branches are generally thorny, but the essence of the thorns is an identifiable attribute — C. limon “Lisbon” is notably thorny, while C. limon “Eureka” is nearly thornless. Leaves could have distinguishing attributes; “Pink Variegated Eureka” has white and green striped leaves. Compact or wax types are also keys to the identity of the tree.

Variations in Fruit

Lemon tree types have different qualities in the fruit that set them apart. “Lisbon” fruit includes a prominent nipple, while “Eureka” includes a small one. The texture of the peel is differs between lemon types; “Lisbon” is simpler than “Eureka” and also a “Meyer” lemon (Citrus x meyeri) is thin-skinned. The lemon of “Variegated Pink Eureka” is cream and green when it is immature, ripening to a light pink. “Meyer” is a deep yellow colour. Lemon varieties produce fruit of different sizes as well, with a few as large as grapefruits.

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When Do You Cut Dead Branches off Cherry Trees?

Both sweet and sour cherries trees (Prunus spp.) Have ornamental value whilst supplying delicious fruit. Like most of deciduous fruit trees, cherries need annual pruning to keep shape and structure, but may also require pruning to remove dead or diseased limbs. It’s very important to eliminate these limbs as soon as possible to protect the tree from infection. This is known as maintenance pruning.

When to Maintenance Prune

Because removing dead or diseased limbs help avoid pest and disease issues, you must prune these limbs once you see them. You don’t have to await some time of year since cherries don’t grow on these undesirable limbs, therefore tree or fruit development isn’t influenced by removing them at any given time of year. You should also prune away any mummified fruits right away and discard them, as well as any diseased limbs.

Maintenance Pruning

Maintenance pruning is the process of removing limbs from the cherry tree which are dead, diseased, broken or rubbing against healthy limbs. Pests and diseases can readily enter limbs which are lifeless, broken or have wounds from branches rubbing against each other. Wounds brought on by branches rubbing together take longer to heal than clean wounds, so the tree is left vulnerable. Standard inspection and elimination of dead branches, diseased branches, broken branches and branches rubbing together can help avoid future issues.

Maintenance Pruning Basics

When pruning a cherry tree to remove dead, diseased or broken limbs, then you must use sterilized pruning shears to avoid the spread of infection. To eliminate dead or unhealthy divisions, then you need to cut approximately six inches into wood. Live wood has feasible buds. To test whether a division is alive or lifeless, gently scrape on the surface and if the color exposed is green, the division is alive. If the color is brown, the division is dead and needs to be removed. When removing branches that rub, you can cut the division back to the nearest bud, or cut back to where the branch and back meet, known as the crotch

Annual Pruning

Annual cherry tree pruning should be carried out in the dormant season, typically in winter through early spring, until the tree starts to grow new leaves. Both sweet and sour cherry varieties only need light yearly pruning one recognized. New trees require annual pruning to help direct tree development, create powerful, productive branches and allow sunlight to be evenly distributed to the entire tree.

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How to Troubleshoot Propane Heaters

Propane heaters possess sensitive controls to regulate gas flow and also keep a room comfortable, but when one malfunctions, the fault is infrequently with those controls, but with all the gasoline or ignition system. The problem is often a clogged gas pipe, a standing pilot that flickers or goes out or a digital spark that doesn’t spark. Even though the gasoline controls seem daunting, the repair might not be as complicated as you think.

Average Heater Operation

When you turn up a heater’s thermostat, it sends a small electric signal to the gas valve, prompting it to open and then send gas to the burner, where the pilot ignites it. The thermostat stops sending the sign once the room temperature reaches the chosen value. It sends it when the temperature falls below a preset value. To ignite the gasoline, the pilot has to be continuously burning or it has to spark whenever the valve opens. Most heater malfunctions may be traced to a faulty pilot, and that, then, may be because of clogged gas pipe.

Rank Terrain Issues

If your propane heater includes a standing pilot, then you need to be able to see it through a window or opening beneath the gas control knob. It should be about one inch high and mostly blue. If it’s very little, it flickers, it is split or it burns yellow or orange, the pilot tubing needs cleaning. You can usually do this by turning off the gas and poking a needle into the tip of the pilot tube. If the pilot will not stay lit, it may be because there’s a draft, but more frequently it is a issue with the thermocouple.

Fixing and Replacing the Thermocouple

The thermocouple is a heat-sensitive device much like the one in the thermostat, and it is a security measure that prevents the discharge of unburned gas. When you light the pilot, then the flame heats up the thermocouple, and once it gets hot enough, it signals the valve to stay open so that the pilot stays lit. The pilot will go out if the thermocouple is too much away from the flame, and you can usually fix this by simply pushing it closer. If the thermocouple wears out, replacing it is a matter of unclipping the bulb, unscrewing the cable from the gas valve and also changing the procedure to install a new one.

Electronic Spark Issues

If your unit has a blower, you might notice a clicking sound whenever the blower switches on. That’s the noise of the digital spark mechanism, and if you have a look in the burner chamber, you need to be able to see the spark. If you do not, there is most likely a faulty electrical connection to the igniter. To fix it, you need an electric diagram of the unit, usually supplied with the operator’s manual. If the heater sparks but doesn’t light, the gas cylinder supplying the unit might be empty or the gasoline might be shut off. If you are certain the unit has gasoline, clean the aperture of the gas valve with a needle.

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The way to correct a Shaking Folding Table

Folding tables utilize broad legs to make them easier to store when not being used. Older kinds of folding tables utilize laminated particleboard as the table surface while newer models may include a plastic shirt. Generally, both kinds of tables incorporate the same type of leg assembly. Tightening the loose components of the table goes its life and lowers the chance of an crash.

Inspect the bottom of the table and determine which part or parts have gotten loose. Assess the mounting mounts that attach the leg assemblies into the table underside, and the folding arms that attach to the legs and table underside.

Tighten the screws securing any mounting brackets to the table underside using a slotted or Phillips screwdriver. Some kinds of tables may use bolts to hold the leg assembly to the table underside. Use an adjustable wrench or pliers to tighten the bolts for these types of tables.

Replace stripped screws or bolts with new ones. If the screw threaded or hole boltholes are eliminated, apply a thread flux in the hole and add a new screw or bolt. Thread sealants act as binding agents, basically gluing the screw or bolt in place. A vast array of thread sealants can be found. Pick a kind that hardens after a fixed amount of time.

Tighten some screws, bolts or nuts associated with the individual leg assemblies. Most frequent kinds of folding tables incorporate two pairs of legs, one on each side, that work in unison with one another. When the fasteners securing each pair of legs jointly become loose, it can lead to an unstable table surface.

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