How Do I Tell if My Eucalyptus Tree in a Pot Is Dead?

Eucalyptus trees (Eucalyptus spp.) Are normally very hardy but may become weakened or diseased like any other kinds of trees. When grown in a pot, which can be a far more limiting surroundings compared to the ground, a eucalyptus is at an elevated health risk. If you plant a eucalyptus in a pot once the plant is small, it will have less chance of trouble. Keep your eye on the plant year-round. A potted eucalyptus tree that’s dead or dying displays certain signs.

Dead Giveaways

A dead or dying tree loses its leaves in massive amounts, turning bare sometimes very fast. Its bark may start to crack, peel, warp or kind holes that shouldn’t be there, signaling the tree isn’t getting any nutrients. When you water a dead eucalyptus tree, then the water may stand or pool across the roots instead of being absorbed by the roots. Dead limbs become brittle and may fall off the tree. Test your eucalyptus tree branches by bending or snapping them. If they’re pliable and bendy, and moist and green within, then they aren’t dead yet. If they break easily and are brown and dry inside, then they are dead.

Container Considerations

For the most part, eucalyptus is disease-resistant, but, to be safe, avoid growing any other plant in a pot that harbored disease. Eucalyptus doesn’t usually need a lot of water once it becomes established in its location. A pot, however, severely restricts its soil resources. Don’t use the exact same watering schedule for a potted eucalyptus that you would use for you planted in the ground. When a potted eucalyptus gets wilted all over, it might die. Give your potted eucalyptus a sunny location because shade can ruin it.

Other Care

Plant your eucalyptus in a pot when it is small, then keep it small with regular pruning of its canopy. Canopy size should mirror root dimension. So don’t allow the tree canopy get overly larger than the pot because the tree will probably be out of equilibrium and in danger of death. Amend the eucalyptus’ soil using a water-retaining medium such as compost, and water the soil to keep the compost constantly moist. Keep the tree from wind is important to stop it from toppling. Repeated toppling can cause the tree’s death.

Origin and Climate

Native to Australia, eucalyptus, or gum, trees are strong-smelling evergreens with usually gray, blue or green leaf. Fast-growing, sturdy and extremely adaptable, their hardiness zones — in which they live outdoors year-round — vary by species. By way of instance, argyle-apple (Eucalyptus cinerea) is hardy at U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. It’s curved, gray leaves clustered in rows along stems, hence its alternate title, silver dollar tree. Lemon-scented gum (Eucalyptus citriodora) is also hardy in USDA zones 8 through 11.

See related

Amazing Truth of Camellia Japonica

Japanese camellia (Camellia japonica), a flowering evergreen shrub, may also be grown as a small tree. It rises in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 to 9 and is indigenous to China, Korea and Japan. Camellias have been developed as both outdoor and conservatory plants. A careful look at the leaves reveals Japanese camellia is a member of the Theaceae, or tea family, closely related to Chinese camellia (Camellia sinensis) that the plant that supplies leaves used to make tea.


The great Swedish botanist Linnaeus, named the camellia for Georg Joseph Kamel, a Jesuit botanist, who understood nothing of the plant, however made significant collecting trips to the Philippines in the 1600s. The very first camellia to arrive in England in 1705 died in a nobleman’s overheated hothouse. Fortunately, cuttings had been taken from the plant and have been successfully grown on. Camellias arrived in the U.S. in the late 18th century, brought by French royal botanist Andre Michaux, who gave a few to Henry Middleton, owner of a South Carolina plantation. More than 200 years later, one of those original camellias is still booming.


Japanese camellias take many forms, a number of them uncommon. Among the most distinctive is that the novelty variety “Unryu Tsubaki,” which features stems that turn in a 45-degree angle at each leaf node, causing a mass of twisted, contorted branches. In addition, it has a virtually columnar shape, which is not typical for camellias. Another unusual camellia is “Kingyo Tsubaki,” also known as the fishtail camellia, which is distinguished by leaves with broken or dissected ends that curl upward and resemble fish tails.


The Japanese camellia is strongly symbolic in many cultures and particular plants are highly prized. The white-flowered camellia “Daijohkan” long prospered in the backyard of an imperial castle in Nagoya, Japan. Propagation of “Daijohkan” was officially illegal until 1964 due to its exalted status for a palace plant. The language of flowersthat thrived in Victorian times, assigned emotional messages or meanings to several flowers. White camellias stood for true excellence and faithfulness. Red blossoms were symbols of attractiveness. Unlike other floral emblems of attractiveness, the Japanese camellia doesn’t have any fragrance.

Camellia Houses

Victorians constructed special camellia houses because of their shrubs. 1 home, constructed at the Chatsworth estate in Derbyshire, England, in 1840, still stands. Some of its original plants continue to flower every spring. In 1848, American camellia collector, Noel Becar, constructed a 100-foot-long camellia home in Brooklyn, New York. Another collector, William Robertson Coe, of Oyster Bay, Long Island, whose company insured the Titanic, constructed a camellia home during World War I. It still stands. The original shipment of over a hundred camellias for Coe’s estate was torpedoed by a German submarine.

See related

Symbolic Flowers to Plant to a Grave

Throughout the Victorian age in the 1800s, with its emphasis on flower gardens and all things horticultural, the English established an elaborate system of floral symbolism. Every flower carried one or more significance when presented to some other person. A number of this symbolic nonverbal communication survives now. In a graveside setting, flowers can communicate grief and love, as well as hopes for the departed.


Astonishingly, the glowing, cheerful-looking marigold (Tagetes spp.) signifies grief. Observing the flower, you may observe that, with the setting of the sun, it folds up tight and lets its head droop. The long-lasting annuals will bloom from early summer until the first frost, if spent flowers are picked. A massive marigold variety (T. cempazuchitl) was correlated with Mexico’s celebration of the Day of the Dead as well as similar celebrations because the Aztecs’ time. Families plant and tend the flowers, thinking of the loved ones they’ve lost. The brilliant orange flowers serve as beacons to guide the deceased’s soul house, and for this special day, Mexicans believe the spirits of their loved ones are using them once more.


Especially for a girl’s grave, the pansy (Viola spp.) Conveys the Victorian values of tender attachment, concern and compassion. In cemetery symbolism, the pansy has begun to portray remembrance and humility. The pansy never needs attention, instead conveying thoughts like think of me, and keep me on your thoughts. These annuals provide multicolored flowers from winter through spring, or longer, in mild-winter places. Establish nursery plants out in the fall.


Dwarf periwinkles (Vinca minor) attribute 1-inch, five-petaled, lavender-blue flowers growing in a pinwheel shape. The simplicity of the blossom fits the logo of the periwinkle: tender recollections. Victorians planted it near memorial urns and graves and sometimes wound it to funeral wreaths. The perennial blossoms in summer, recalling the freshness of spring that’s gone. Plant the dwarf variety, as bigger periwinkles (V. major) are invasive plants. Miniature periwinkles flourish in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 10.


In cemeteries, the poppy (Papaver spp.) Denotes peace and perpetual sleep for the departed. Poppies’ large flowers make a powerful statement in spring and summer in colours like orange, yellow, salmon, pink, cream, white, red, purple and deep plum that’s virtually black. A frequent variety of the yearly is called “Flanders Field,” and the blossoms have been linked to Veterans Day, when memorial poppies are offered.

See related

How Is a Lemon Tree Identified?

Most plants, including the lemon tree (Citrus limon), are identified through their size, form, leaf, fruit and flower attributes. The lemon species is easily cultivated and hybridized, and many varieties are commercially productive. The lemon itself is a remarkable feature that’s easy to identify, however differences in other features also help identify one lemon tree from the other.

Lemon Tree Type, Leaf and Flower

The lemon tree is an evergreen species, growing 10 to 20 feet tall, usually with the open, spreading growth habit and lightly covered with foliage. The leaves have an elliptical shape, fine-toothed, waxy dark green on the top surface and light green underneath. The flower has five sepals, five petals, several pistils and a single stamen; the petals are white on the top surface and also pinkish-red on the other side. Citrus blossoms are fragrant; the caliber of the scent is an identifying characteristic in lemon types.


The lemon is really a berry (hesperidium), ranging in length from 2 3/4 inch into 4 3/4 inch. It’s ovoid in shape, covered with a peel ranging in color from light to deep yellow. Commercial growers often spray lemons with ethylene gas to encourage the yellow colour early in the season, but lemons may be ripe when the peel remains green. The juice content and taste of the lemon ranges from acidic to sweet, depending on the number.

Identifying Lemon Varieties

Slight differences in tree form, leaf colour and other features aid in comprehending a lemon tree variety. As an example, twigs on lemon tree branches are generally thorny, but the essence of the thorns is an identifiable attribute — C. limon “Lisbon” is notably thorny, while C. limon “Eureka” is nearly thornless. Leaves could have distinguishing attributes; “Pink Variegated Eureka” has white and green striped leaves. Compact or wax types are also keys to the identity of the tree.

Variations in Fruit

Lemon tree types have different qualities in the fruit that set them apart. “Lisbon” fruit includes a prominent nipple, while “Eureka” includes a small one. The texture of the peel is differs between lemon types; “Lisbon” is simpler than “Eureka” and also a “Meyer” lemon (Citrus x meyeri) is thin-skinned. The lemon of “Variegated Pink Eureka” is cream and green when it is immature, ripening to a light pink. “Meyer” is a deep yellow colour. Lemon varieties produce fruit of different sizes as well, with a few as large as grapefruits.

See related

When Do You Cut Dead Branches off Cherry Trees?

Both sweet and sour cherries trees (Prunus spp.) Have ornamental value whilst supplying delicious fruit. Like most of deciduous fruit trees, cherries need annual pruning to keep shape and structure, but may also require pruning to remove dead or diseased limbs. It’s very important to eliminate these limbs as soon as possible to protect the tree from infection. This is known as maintenance pruning.

When to Maintenance Prune

Because removing dead or diseased limbs help avoid pest and disease issues, you must prune these limbs once you see them. You don’t have to await some time of year since cherries don’t grow on these undesirable limbs, therefore tree or fruit development isn’t influenced by removing them at any given time of year. You should also prune away any mummified fruits right away and discard them, as well as any diseased limbs.

Maintenance Pruning

Maintenance pruning is the process of removing limbs from the cherry tree which are dead, diseased, broken or rubbing against healthy limbs. Pests and diseases can readily enter limbs which are lifeless, broken or have wounds from branches rubbing against each other. Wounds brought on by branches rubbing together take longer to heal than clean wounds, so the tree is left vulnerable. Standard inspection and elimination of dead branches, diseased branches, broken branches and branches rubbing together can help avoid future issues.

Maintenance Pruning Basics

When pruning a cherry tree to remove dead, diseased or broken limbs, then you must use sterilized pruning shears to avoid the spread of infection. To eliminate dead or unhealthy divisions, then you need to cut approximately six inches into wood. Live wood has feasible buds. To test whether a division is alive or lifeless, gently scrape on the surface and if the color exposed is green, the division is alive. If the color is brown, the division is dead and needs to be removed. When removing branches that rub, you can cut the division back to the nearest bud, or cut back to where the branch and back meet, known as the crotch

Annual Pruning

Annual cherry tree pruning should be carried out in the dormant season, typically in winter through early spring, until the tree starts to grow new leaves. Both sweet and sour cherry varieties only need light yearly pruning one recognized. New trees require annual pruning to help direct tree development, create powerful, productive branches and allow sunlight to be evenly distributed to the entire tree.

See related

Homemade Earth Box Planter

An Earthbox planter is a patented brand of self-watering gardening containers that have many advantages for small-space gardening. A homemade earth box planter is simple to construct with some basic materials available in a hardware shop. Construction of the expanding container takes a day and results in the rewarding advantage of developing your own fresh produce.


An earth box is constructed with pipes and a filter display so that the planter has the ability of being a self-watering container. This design makes the system low-maintenance for busy people who don’t have enough time for everyday water applications. The pipes hold and distribute water into the soil to keep it evenly moist for optimum growth during the hot summer months. These planters can be any size, but generally are a rectangular shape that’s ideal for growing vegetables. An earth box works well for a small apartment area, patio garden or anywhere that you would like an easy to plant and maintain garden.


An earth box planter is a closed-system garden on account of the water reservoir that provides a regular supply of water. You might observe this type of planter requires less water complete and will collect excess water in the reservoir to get less waste. Incorporating a slow-release fertilizer into the soil provides an optimum growing environment with adequate nourishment and moisture during the growing season. An earth box is low-maintenance because the pipes and reservoir can hold enough water to moisten the soil for up to five days, and also have less weed growth than a ground garden.


An 18-gallon plastic storage bin with 1-inch PVC pipe and construction tools are the basic equipment needed for an earth box. A lid drilled using evenly placed holes creates a water reservoir below the soil when it is fit into position about 3 inches in the bottom of the bin. A hole cut into every single corner of the lid to fit the PVC pipe will hold the pipes in place as a way of filling the reservoir. Placing a “V” notch into the bottom of every PVC pipe span lets the water leak out of the pipes. Affix the lid in place with duct tape if it doesn’t fit snug when pushed into position.


Plant seeds or seedlings within an earth box filled with a high-quality potting soil combined with a slow-release vegetable fertilizer. Use the application speed on the fertilizer package dependent on the amount of soil in the box. Following the seed packet or seedling sticker for spacing recommendations for your plants prevents overcrowding that may reduce production. Set the empty earth box in the desired place before putting and filling. An earth box filled with soil and water is very heavy and not easy to lift and move.

See related

How to select an Avocado In the Tree

Avocado trees require seven days to 15 years to develop from seed to fruit-bearing adulthood, but make up for the wait with an annual return of 60 to 200 avocados each tree. They grow best in warm climates with loads of moisture. Mature trees grown outdoors can achieve heights of 15 to 45 feet tall depending upon the range, which makes it difficult to make it to the upper fruits even with a ladder. The fruits do not ripen on the tree and also allowing them to fall may bruise the fruit, so you must use a pole pruner with a basket or bag attachment.

Inspect the fruit on the tree consistently for adulthood at the beginning of the crop season, which varies with different varieties. For instance, the common “Hass” avocado crop season extends from January through October, “Zutano” is harvested in November through February, and also “Fuerte” ripens in November to June. Judge the size of the fruit to determine adulthood. Some avocados change color to indicate ripeness, also, like “Hass,” which is dark green to black when mature, or “Dickinson,” which changes from green to purple. Avoid selecting immature avocados because they will shrivel instead of softening after selected.

Select just as many antidepressants as you will have the ability to eat in a few days so you do not waste any fruits. You can leave the remaining adult avocados on the tree and pick them a few days to a week before you plan to utilize them.

Grip the avocado in your hand and cut the stem just above the fruit, using a pair of bypass pruners. Should you have to harvest a huge volume of avocados, utilize a crop knife or hook, which you simply hook supporting the stem and pull to pick the fruit. This works great if the avocados are reduced to the ground or accessible by ladder.

Position a pole pruner with the fabric or basket catching sack directly under the adult avocado. Pole pruners may include scissor-style blades or a hook-style blade which you position behind the stem.

Pull down on a hook-style pole pruner with a single swift motion to cut the stem and grab the avocado in the basket or bag. In case you have a scissor-style pole pruner, pull the attached rope to shut the scissors and cut the stem.

See related

The way to Prune a Flaming Bush Shrub

A flaming, or burning, bush is often utilized in landscaping in places where you might want some fall colour. Staying green during the spring and summer months, this simple-looking shrub turns a vibrant crimson in the fall, making certain that everybody stops and takes notice. Because the main season for this plant is in the fall to early winter, pruning must done in the early spring until it places on new growth.

Snip back stems which have grown beyond the shape of the shrub so they are in line with the rest. Slim with pruning snips in a 45-degree angle just above a leaf node. New growth usually forms and grows out from the cut, thus make snips across the sides of the bush carefully, to ensure branches do not grow downward.

Remove dead limbs back to the base of the plant or to where they grow out from the other limb. Snip them off 1/2 inch in the base or other limb, so that you don’t cut or scar the surface.

Cut back the flaming bush to one third of its length to decrease size and also encourage new growth all over. Never cut more than one-third of the length, unless a portion of the limb is dead, or maybe you stop growth of the limb completely.

Thin out your flaming bush to bring in light and air flow. This will encourage more leaves and stalks to develop within the bush. Cut old thick branches to the ground, leaving younger more vibrant ones to take over. Select branches which are evenly spaced so that the bush doesn’t wind up being overly thin in 1 place and thicker in another. You might also thin out a place of the bush that appears overly fragile by selectively removing a branch back to where it intersects with the other, while leaving the rest of the bush untouched.

See related

Watermelon Vine Care

Watermelon (Citrullus lanatus) is just a sprawling yearly vine indigenous to tropical Africa, in which it has been cultivated for centuries. The watermelon vine has rough, broad leaves, white or yellow, tubular flowers and big, thick-rinded fruits that home juicy, sweet flesh that might be red, pink or yellow. If properly cared for, watermelon vines can yield an abundance of tasty fruits throughout the summer.


Watermelons are warm weather-loving plants that prefer temperatures to stay between 50 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit and develop in many climates as an annual. They absolutely must be increased in complete, all-day sunlight to prosper. The seeds will not germinate, or will germinate poorly, in soil that’s too chilly. Soil temperatures must be 60 F before planting, after all prospect of spring frost has passed.


Watermelons prefer a rich, sandy loam with a pH between 5.3 and 8. They are more tolerant of dry soils than soggy soils, and can quickly succumb to rot and fungal disorder if implanted in a flooded portion of their lawn. That said, watermelons do best in soils that are kept moist to a depth of 6 inches. If possible, water the ground directly, avoiding the leaves and fruits. Wet leaves are vulnerable to diseases.

Sowing Seed

Once the ground has warmed adequately in the spring, sow the seeds directly in the garden in a depth of approximately 1 inch. Plant seeds in rows approximately six to eight feet apart, as they’ll need plenty of room to spread out. Planting watermelons too close together results in poor air circulation, which may bring about infection. To get a jump start on the growing season, consider growing transplants. Based on Clemson Cooperative Extension, transplants could be harvested up to 2 weeks earlier than seeds.


If the soil pH is too low, or there is inadequate calcium in the dirt, the blossoms of this watermelon might rot, preventing fruit from growing. Over-fertilizing may have its perils too, as an excess of nitrogen can cause an abundance of leaves and not enough fruits. Pests aren’t usually a significant problem, although cucumber beetles and aphids may be a nuisance. Powdery mildew is common in plants that are crowded or watered from overhead.

See related

Fruit Trees in Greenhouses

Greenhouses were once called orangeries in Europe and were originally constructed to grow orange trees inside. You can now grow all sorts of fruit trees in the greenhouse, controlling the environment to ensure that trees make a healthy harvest. Whether you grow fruit in the greenhouse year around or simply move fruit trees inside to protect them from winter cold, the greenhouse is a cozy place for fruit trees in any given time of year.

Greenhouse Conditions

When growing fruit trees in the greenhouse, you’ll want to provide a warm atmosphere for them to thrive. Most fruit trees value temperatures over 50 degrees Fahrenheit, including bananas and citrus trees, while tropical fruit trees require temperatures above 60 F. Citrus trees prefer a moist environment, using light, frequent waterings and regular misting.

Winter Growing

In cold climates, it is wise to move purple or citrus fruit trees from the cold and into the greenhouse prior to the first fall frost. Even at a Mediterranean climate, fruit trees can benefit from a move inside on chilly nights in September and October. This may also avoid dormancy, which means that your own fruit trees will create fruits year around.


One of the significant drawbacks to think about is the expense of operating a greenhouse. Heat and heat the environment can quickly increase your utility accounts, and there are other problems, like heaters drying out trees. It’s also important to think about which fruit trees actually benefit from greenhouse growing and that don’t. For instance, apple trees require cold temperatures to induce budding and make fruit, which makes successful greenhouse growing not feasible.


Since fruit trees do best in warm weather and mild winters, growing them in a greenhouse ensures they will get adequate temperatures. And you’ll also have cautious control over all facets of the greenhouse environment, without the troubles outdoor growers have, including rainfall, dry spells and frosts. The greenhouse also shelters fruit trees in damaging windsthat is especially beneficial for citrus trees that cannot tolerate wind.

See related