Varieties of Dwarf Pink Magnolias

Magnolias are a family of shrubs and trees known for their large, saucer-like blossoms that appear early in the spring. Full-size magnolia trees often grow up to 80 feet in height and could be impractical for smaller garden spaces. However, dwarf species provide all of the beauty and scent of this magnolia’s distinguishing flowers while supplying more convenient sizing for hedges or even more enclosed locations. While many dwarf varieties produce white flowers, a couple cultivars provide pink or violet blooms and stay under 20 feet in height.

“Ann” Magnolia

The “Ann” magnolia (Magnolia x “Ann”) is a late-blooming cultivar that is hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 through 8. This tiny hybrid grows to only 8 to 10 feet high, which makes it a good option for hedges and boundaries. The flowers bloom in late spring and are a deep violet pink.

“Jane” Magnolia

The “Jane” magnolia (Magnolia x “Jane”) is among the hardiest of this dwarf magnolias, opening late in the spring to prevent damage from frost, allowing it to thrive in USDA zones 4 through 7. The tree grows between 10 and 15 feet tall, boasting distinguishing flowers that are reddish-pink on the outside and white on the interior.

Fairy Magnolia Blush

The hybrid Fairy Magnolia Blush (Michelia x “MicJUR01”) is hardy to USDA zones 8 to 11 and creates pale pink blooms from the conclusion of winter during mid-spring. This compact plant grows 10 to 13 feet tall, which makes it ideal for hedges or other tight spaces.

Black Tulip Magnolia

The Black Tulip magnolia (Magnolia x soulangiana “Jurmag1”) offers distinctive deep pink blossoms with a cupped tulip form. This deciduous cultivar does well in containers, with slender branches extending around 15 to 20 feet tall. It’s hardy to USDA zones 5 through 9.

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A Description of the Flowers of the Baobab Tree and How They Are Pollinated

The nine baobab tree species (Adansonia spp.) Grow in low-lying, arid regions of Africa, Madagascar or Australia. The deciduous trees can become massive, with the larger species reaching 80 feet in height and 40 feet in back width. A baobab is sometimes referred to as the “upside down tree” because when bare, its crown looks like a root system. Although baobabs’ smooth bark does not enable the trees’ ages to be discerned by counting rings in their trunks, carbon dating has put some specimens at over 1,000 years old. The trees’ blossoms are pollinated by bats, insects and mouse lemurs, based on in which the trees grow.

Floral Screen

All baobab trees have flowers which open during the night and fall within a day. The species commonly known as African baobab (Adansonia digitata) contains big, white flowers which can reach 5 inches in diameter. Each blossom’s around, thick petals surround a mass of purplish stamens. African baobab is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b through 11. The six baobab species in Madagascar have flowers which range in color from white to yellow and orange, and the blooms are usually smaller than those of African baobab. Two species in Madagascar have pendulous blossoms while four have flowers with long, cylindrical petals. All species from the Adansonia genus sport blossoms which have copious quantities of nectar and strong aromas.

Pollination of African Baobab

Many species of fruit bats are the main pollinators of African baobab. The large blooms are well-suited to bat pollination since they are big enough to support a bat while it laps nectar. The flowers grow on long stalks at the end of branches, where bats can reach them easily. Since few blossoms are open at one time, bats must move from tree to tree, which promotes cross-pollination.

Pollination of Madagascar Baobabs

Madagascar baobabs are pollinated mainly by mouse lemurs and hawk moths. Mouse lemurs, which will be the world’s smallest primates, emerge after hibernation to feast on the nectar of baobab trees’ flowers. Hawk moths feed the baobabs’ nectar, also, and spread the trees’ pollen. The mouse lemurs, however, catch and consume feeding moths.

Pollination of Baobab Down Under

Australian bottle tree (Adansonia gregorii) is the single species of baobab native to Australia. It is quite much like African baobab genetically, but its flowers are very long and cylindrical rather than around and pendulous. Although bats visit Australian bottle tree and feed its flowers’ nectar, hawk moths would be the tree’s main pollinators. The cylindrical shape of the blossoms are more suited to moths and other insects than to bats. Australian bottle tree is hardy in USDA zone 11.

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Will Deer Eat Lilies & Hostas?

Deer will eat just about any plant that is available to them, but they really do prefer some types of foliage over others. Both hostas (Hosta spp.) and lilies (Lilium spp.) Are bull favorites, and often damaged by their grazing habits. If you enjoy having these plants and their blooms in your garden, you are going to have to protect them with fencing to deter deer from snacking on them.

Shade-loving Hostas

You’ll find hostas in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, based upon the species. These herbaceous perennials have been known for their leaves, which come in a variety of colors, and showy, lily-like flowers. Hostas are used as ground cover or as an addition to boundaries. They grow well in rich soil and prosper in partial to full shade. Hostas with leaves need color than their counterparts that are yellow or green. With the exclusion of snails and slugs, hostas are free of pests, which makes them easy to watch over and plant plants.

Hostas: A Deer Buffet

While hostas are thought to be toxic to some animals, like dogs, cats and horses, they are not toxic to deer, according to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. Deer love eating their large leaves, tender ones, especially the young. Hostas merely grow between 2 and 3 feet in height, so they are easy to protect with garden and fencing netting to deter deer. Install a few sprinklers close to the plants to harmlessly repel deer and keep your hostas moist and fine. You can even spray a little deer-repellent on the leaves of your hostas to dissuade them.

Colorful Lilies

Lilies of various species thrive in USDA zones 3 through 9, just like hostas, as these plants both used to be classified together from the Lily (Liliaceae) family. These bulbs grow best in full sun or shady locales and are known for their large, showy blossoms. Lilies can grow very tall, up to 8 feet based on the species of lily which you are dealing with. Lilies make excellent border plants and are deemed low-maintenance plants, although they can suffer with bulb corrosion, the mosaic virus — that is spread by aphids — botrytis and weak stems from growing from heavily-shaded or windy spots.

Lilies: A Smorgasbord for Deer

Like hostas, deer love munching according to the North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension. Plant them away from the fencing to discourage algae from nibbling on these tall plants and install fencing at least 8 feet in height to protect your lilies. Plant a few deer-resistant foliage, such as a few greenery with thorns, aromatic leaves or leaves with a tough, leathery feel, around your lilies, recommends the California Native Plant Society. Produce hedges around other exposed crops and your own forehead using foliage which deer don’t like to consume. Oleander (Nerium oleander), by way of instance, is resistant since it’s toxic and grows up to 8 feet tall. You’ll find oleander in USDA zones 8 through 10.

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What's Cutting My Corn Off at the Ground?

Stalks of corn (Zea mays) severed near ground level through the night are a sign cutworms are on the job. These insects are caterpillars which feed on the stalks of other plants and corn. By migrating adults hatch in early spring when eggs laid during the fall or the cutworm’s life cycle starts. Cutworm eggs are found on low plants or on the floor. Till they develop into their adult form these insects will continue to feed on corn and other plants throughout the spring and in the summer.

Cutworm Habits

Cutworms are currently burrowing insects that emerge from the soil to feed at the night. Cutworms feed on a variety of plants but will aim tender such as corn seedlings. These pests chew through it, leaving the remainder of the plant onto the floor and wrap themselves around the stalk of this plant. There are currently rising species of cutworm which can climb corn stalks to feed on their foliage.

Cutworm Damage

Damaged or completely severed stems which are chewed at or just below ground level are a powerful indicator of cutworms. Following feeding on it these insects leave little holes in the soil around the base of the plant. Plants close to the border of gardens are attacked after eggs. Damage is spread after eggs laid by migrating hatch throughout the backyard. Feeding species, such as black cutworm, will move from plant to plant, leaving a plant every night ruined.

Identifying Cutworms

Cutworm eggs are round with a flattened top and dull white. These eggs have a feel and are laid placed at rows that are densely packed on the floor or plants. Cutworm larvae typically measure 1 to 2 1 3/4 inches and will curl in on themselves when disturbed. The cutworm includes a semi-transparent grey or light body body with irregularly spaced black dots. The variegated cutworm includes a darker, tan-colored body with a underbelly that’s speckled with white spots.

Controlling Cutworms

The ideal time to control cutworms is until they begin or hatch feeding. Tilling weeds in around the backyard in the end of this growing season in fall helps destroy eggs which would hatch the following season. Tilling again before planting time will help remove these pests. Ditches around the perimeter of a corn patch helps stop migrating cutworms .

Spraying Cutworms

Pesticides using the active ingredient carbaryl provide control over cutworms. Pesticide made from liquid carbaryl concentrate is best mixed in a speed of 1.5 oz per 1 gallon of water at a pump sprayer unless the tag specifies otherwise. add the carbaryl and shake the concentrate before opening the bottle and fill it. Apply in the night to the bases of the plants and the corn plants surrounding them. Always wear pants gloves and long sleeves when handling pesticides to prevent accidental contact. Spray through you’re spraying. Carbaryl is highly toxic to honeybees, avoid using it or blossoms when possible and don’t spray it onto corn in two weeks of harvesting it.

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Description of Sunspot Euonymus

Durability under harsh conditions, excellent shade tolerance and year-round shade make wintercreeper “Sunspot” (Euonymus fortunei “Sunspot”) a flexible border tree or compact climber in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8. As with other wintercreepers, “Sunspot” has two major shortcomings: It’s potentially dangerous, and its colorful fall berries are poisonous to pets and people if eaten in large quantities.

Ornamental Features

Yellow-stemmed, shiny foliage variegated with irregular, dark green borders and bright yellow centres account for “Sunspot’s” usefulness as a shade-garden ornamental. Its green, late-summer berries split to show seeds covered in bright orange pulp. Birds and wildlife consume the pulp and then spread the undigested seeds to new places, where they may crowd out native vegetation. The tree’s modest, greenish-white flowers bloom from late spring to early summer.

Dimensions and Form

“Sunspot” is a curved, spreading cultivar, typically reaching 3 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide if it is fully grown. In numerous plantings, space them 4 to 6 feet apart. The tree’s main stems produce tendrils that allow it to climb nearby trees, shrubs or structures.

Growing Conditions

“Sunspot’s” variegation is most powerful in part sun to part shade, with from two to six hours of daily sun. In hot summer climates, it will better at the lower end of the range. A young plant in an exposed spot benefits from burlap wrapping to protect it from winter wind. Once established, “Sunspot” tolerates cold down to minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant it in any soil but a consistently wet one.

Basic Care Tips

“Sunspot” prefers moist soil and takes deep weekly watering during dry spells. Spreading a 2-inch layer of ground bark mulch out of its own drip line to over 6 inches of its base preserves dirt. Working a 1-inch layer of organic compost and to the top 6 to 8 inches of soil before planting helps it be establish. Replenishing the compost each spring and concurrently spreading 4-3-4 organic wide leaf evergreen fertilizer around the drip line retains it vigorous. A “Sunspot” less than 3 feet broad gets 1 cup of fertilizer for each 1 foot of height, while bigger plants get 2 cups for each 1 foot of height.

Pruning Requirements

For the tidiest kind and most vibrant shade, “Sunspot” needs trimming in early spring. Pruning the berries until the birds get them lessens its invasiveness. Any shoots that revert to strong green ought to be pruned once they look. Pruning tools wiped down between cuts with a cloth dipped in a solution of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts alcohol are not as likely to spread infection.

Disease and Pests

Diseases seldom bother “Sunspot,” but euonymus scale insects do serious damage by feeding its sap off. The scale colonies look like white or grayish powder sprinkled along the stems or on the corners of their leaves. Even tiny numbers destroy its appearance, and a heavy infestation can make it lose its leaves or kill it. Scraping scales off or pruning badly infested branches helps, but the best control method is to saturate the dormant plants in winter or early spring with a pressurized spray of 10 tablespoons of olive oil each 1 gallon of water. Wearing safety goggles, a respiratory mask, waterproof gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, socks, shoes and a hat and also adhering to the label’s instructions is vital when spraying. Keep children and pets out of the region when you’re using garden chemicals.

“Sunspot” Sports

“Sunspot” has created two widely grown organic mutations, or sports. “Blondy’s” (Euonymus fortunei “Blondy”) yellow-stemmed, yellow-centered leaves are edged in green. “Moonshadow’s” (Euonymus fortunei “Moonshadow”) deep-green leaf margins enclose bright-yellow centres which fade to white as they age, and it never reverts to solid green. Both sports grow in USDA zones 5 through 8.

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Companion Planting Basil & Chives

Both chives (Alium schoenoprasum) and basil (Ocimum basilicum) produce chemicals that help repel some garden insects, such as aphids. Basil grows as an annual herb, while chives grow as perennials at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. Companion putting these herbs with vegetables susceptible to insect damage and ornamental plants can help reduce pest damage.

Beneficial Properties

Insects are repelled from the aromatic oils created by chives and basil. The smell of these herbs also confuses foraging insects, notes Cornell University’s extension, camouflaging the aroma of the plants that the insects wish to feed on. Blending chives and basil in using other plants or putting them as a border round insect-susceptible plants can provide some protection from pest insects.

Pairing Up

Chives and basils make good companions for any plant that’s similar growing requirements, but perennial chives perform better if planted in an area where they won’t be disturbed each year. Chives also produce attractive lavender flowers, in addition to the deep green, grassy edible foliage, so they can make a suitable companion to ornamental perennials, such as roses (Rosa spp.) , which develop in USDA zones 4 through 9 depending on the variety. Basil works well with other annual plants. Although the green foliage is attractive, the plant is not highly ornamental so it makes a good companion to summer vegetables, such as tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) and peppers (Capsicum annuum).

Growing Chives

Chives do best in mattresses that drain well with moderately rich soil. Chives tolerate both complete, all-day sun and partial shade, and that means you can companion plant them under or about bushes and larger plants that will filter the sun reaching the chives. They also grow well in clumps interspersed with vegetables, annual flowers or perennial flowers, but distance them 10 to 12 inches apart so you do not disturb the chives when replacing another plants. The plants can reach up to 18 inches tall when in flower, so they may not work well with lower growing flowers or flowers. Chives can withstand moist soil, but wet, soggy soil will kill them. They function best with about 1 inch of water each week. The flowers readily self-seed after flowering, so trim off the flower heads after blossom should youn’t want more plants.

Basil Care

Basil grows in warm, frost-free weather in beds that get complete, all-day sun. The plants can grow up to two feet tall, so space them about 12 inches away from their companion plants to prevent overcrowding. Basil needs moist dirt, usually about 1 inch of water a week is sufficient to keep the top 6 inches of soil moist. After flowering, basil plants begin to fall and perish. Pinching off the tips of the plants often to prevent flower buds from forming can expand their productiveness, or you’ll be able to replace the plants as soon as they begin to flower.

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The Way to Stop the Sap From Ficus Clippings

The genus Ficus incorporates edible figs (Ficus carica) as well as many ornamentals such as the rubber tree (Ficus elastica) and weeping fig (Ficus benjamina). Ficus possess a milky sap which bleeds from wounds or reduce cells. Sap bleeding is a natural phenomenon that ceases with time and protects wounds from ailments. Edible figs are sturdy at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9 and also have invasive tendencies in certain places. The rubber tree and weeping fig are equally hardy in USDA zones 11 and 10b.

In rubbing alcohol or a solution of 1 part household bleach sharp pruning shears.

Put on gloves to protect your skin in the ficus sap.

Prune off a terminal branch of a ficus or rubber tree that is roughly 6 to 9 inches in length. Cut off the branch just above a leaf node. Do not worry about the bleeding out of the cut end of the branch that stays about the plant.

By pruning them off the branch cutting remove the foliage aside from the top a couple of leaves edge. This allows the cutting to place all its energy instead of developing leaves.

Put in a container full of water that is sufficient to cover this cutting’s wounded areas so the sap will dissolve into the water instead of hardening on the stem. Wait 30 minutes before removing the cutting. Shake off the excess water.

Coat this cutting’s puned finish with rooting hormone. Set the cutting in a rooting medium such as sand, moistened perlite or vermiculite. Be sure that the container includes bottom drain holes. Maintaining the soil moist.

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How to Grow Shell Gingers

Shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet), using its large, variegated leaves and pendulous clusters of fragrant, light pink blossoms, adds a lush, stunning appearance to landscaping. It is native to tropical India and only develops outdoors within moderate environments, such as U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9b throughout 11. Few tropical plants are easy since it is not vulnerable to disease, to nurture as shell ginger and requires little care. It looks and grows best if supplied with pruning soil and frequent water to remove dead leaves.

Plant shell ginger at a mattress with complete sunlight exposure in coastal locations and under partial shade in hot, dry inland regions. Amend the mattress using a 6-inch-thick layer of compost to a depth of 15 inches to help regulate the moisture retention and nutrient content of the soil.

Distribute a 3-inch-thick layer of mulch at a 10-inch radius around the bottom of the plant to help keep the soil surrounding the roots moist and cool. Remove in spring and replace it with a new layer from colonizing the roots, to keep fungi.

Ginger plants are shelled by water often and deeply. Run a hose at the bottom of the plant for 10 to 15 minutes a week. Increase water to weekly during periods of extreme drought or heat. Reduce water by half during the winter months. Cease watering.

Before the plant blooms feed shell ginger plants with 10-10-10 ratio mulch in spring warms to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and in summer. Apply the fertilizer at full advantage. Water afterward.

After the flowers fade, prune away all dead or damaged leaves. Snip off the leaves stems using bypass shears that are sharp. Discard the leaves instead of using them as mulch.

Watch for signs from the plant like brown edges on the leaves, which indicates that it is currently receiving inadequate moisture. Test the soil moisture with the tip of your finger. Add water to the soil if it feels dry at the inch to prevent additional harm to the leaves.

Divide and replant ginger plants every couple of years to promote prolific blooming and a lush, womanly look. Dig up the large rhizomes in spring using a shovel. Break them into 2- and replant them beneath the surface of the soil.

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How to Safeguard Grass Seedlings With Peat Moss

Intended for garden cultivation, peat moss creates a potting soil which allows oxygen to attain the root system of a plant and retains water. It is inexpensive and readily available at garden centers. Covering grass seed or seedlings with peat moss will not just protect the seeds from being eliminated or taken away, but it also helps prevent the seeds from drying out and adds the soil and nutrients.

Choosing Grass Seed

The type plays a major part in how well the lawn will look so choose one which develops best in your location. For instance, some areas require cool-season grasses, like perennial ryegrass or tall fescue, but others need grasses, such as buffalo, Augustine or zoysia grass. Warm-season grasses grow best when planted in while grasses thrive when planted in late summer and early fall.

Preparing The Lawn

You must germinate the seeds, before you protect grass seedlings with peat moss. Prepare the soil by eliminating debris, stones and weeds. If you use weed killer wait prior to panting the grass seed. If you are starting fresh with a new lawn, think about renting a dirt tiller to until the 6 inches of dirt.

Planting Grass Seed

Seed is implanted by spreading the seeds within the soil that was planned. This may be accomplished by using your hand along with a seed spreader. Using your head to distribute the seeds is performed on a plot smaller than 150 feet. Anything larger and you ought to use a seed spreader. Add a fertilizer to assist the seeds float, As soon as you have the seeds spread evenly across the soil and dampen softly with a water sprayer set on mist. Employing the mist setting will stop washing away the seeds.

Including Peat Moss

Peat moss can be added immediately or after the seeds have germinated. Cover with about 1/4 inch of peat moss. Water the peat moss with a water sprayer set on mist. Water the peat moss a day before the seedlings are about half an inch tall, then cut at down the watering to every couple of days.

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How to Propagate Holly Shrubs

Holly belongs to the genus Ilex, which comprises commonly cultivated shrubs grown for showy red berries and their dark-green, spiny leaves. All types of holly propagate from semi-hardwood or softwood cuttings taken in early summer or late spring, and most are simple to grow by even beginner gardeners. While possible, seed propagation is not recommended because of the usefulness of seeds, as well as their slow growth rate and higher instance of failure out of root rot and damping off.

How to Propagate Holly out of Cuttings

When gardening in the Bay region start propagation from cuttings in spring or summer. Wait until the first flush of growth seems in the ends of the branches prior to collecting the cuttings for propagation.

Prepare prior to collecting the cuttings rooting containers. Fill a 6-inch nursery container with a nutrient-poor moderate such as coarse sand or a mixture of perlite and half milled coir or peat moss. Pour water onto the medium until it is saturated, and let it drain while amassing the holly cutting.

Put on gloves to protect your hands. Locate an cutting in the tip of a holly branch. Find one with immature leaves in the tip and older leaves in the base. Measure 4 to 6 inches from the branch’s tip. Sever the holly cutting using pruning shears or a knife.

Scrape off all of the leaves along the base-half of the holly cutting. Use your pruning shears or knife to scrape the leaves. Carefully whittle a 1/2-inch-long part of bark from the base of the cutting, which is a procedure known as”wounding.”

Dip the defoliated end of the holly cutting into 0.8 percent IBA rooting talc until it is well coated. Gently tap on the cutting to dislocate any talc. Take care since it causes irritation in many men and women, not to inhale the talc.

Poke a planting hole and drained flashing medium. Make the pit to a depth equal to half of the period of your holly cutting. Insert the base of the cutting into the hole. Press the dirt against the stem and firm it.

Place the potted cutting in a place offering protection and sun against wind, cold temperatures and heat. Put the nursery container beneath a heating mat. Adjust the temperature on the heating mat degrees F.

Mist the holly foliage every day using a plant mister, spray bottle or a hose with a misting nozzle. moisture in the medium at all times ; however, Keep light, avoid since it will bring about the holly cutting saturating the medium.

Assess for indications of rooting after potting the holly cutting. Tug the foundation of the stem and sense for immunity to the movement, which suggests the cutting is”stuck” into the rooting medium by fresh roots. After rooting remove the cutting out of the warming mat.

Keep the holly cutting beneath sunlight for its first year. Transplant the cutting into a container once roots look in the drainage holes in the container that is rooting.

Plant the holly sapling from the garden in spring of the next year after soil temperatures reach 60 degrees F. Pick a sunny planting site with fertile, well-draining soil.

How to Propagate Holly Shrubs from Seed

Collect seeds out of a mature holly shrub in early fall or late summer. Collect berries and place them in a skillet. Soak the berries for 48 hours or until the berries’ flesh softens and starts to disintegrate. Crush the berries and remove the tiny seeds.

Wrap the seeds in a moistened paper towel and place it inside a plastic bag. Store the holly seeds in this style within the crisper drawer of a fridge for five weeks. It dries out remoisten the paper towel. Eliminate the seeds that are holly out of storage in spring of the year.

Prepare a container for each holly shrub you would like to spread by seed. Fill 6-inch nursery containers with a mixture of equal parts coarse sand, dirt and perlite. Sow two seeds in each container. Press the seeds onto the surface of the soil and cover them with a layer of dirt.

Water the seeds to a depth of 1 inch. Maintain moisture at a depth of 1 inch throughout the germination procedure. Allow the growing medium to dry out to watering.

Place the plants that are potted in a shaded place outdoors where they’ll be protected from strong wind, direct sun and cold temperatures, or even place them within a frame in the colder weather, more foggy areas on the west-side of San Francisco.

Watch for germination three weeks later sowing the seeds that are holly, but don’t be surprised when it takes up to sprout. Should both happen to germinate, thin the seedlings into a per container. Eliminate of the two seedlings.

Keep seed-grown holly shrubs in seasons growing prior to planting them elsewhere. Protect them from extreme temperatures and direct sun since they set a root system that is workable.

Plant them out in the backyard in springtime once soil temperatures top 60 degrees F. Pick a bright, well-draining place in the garden for planting the holly seedlings.

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